Romania - Eastern Europe - page 544

WHERE TO STAY & DINE
VILLAGE STAYS
Home stays are a fine way of discovering the region and its people, and locals have dis-
covered that they are an excellent way to supplement their incomes—in some villages, it
seems as though every second house is open for business, offering beds and home-
cooked meals. The quality of the experience may differ from home to home (a firmer
mattress here, a larger shower room there), but ultimately, it is dealings with your con-
vivial hosts that translate into memories. The three options described below can all be
arranged as part of a tour with DiscoveRomania; each is in a unique village environment.
Casa Popicu The pace of life in Hoteni village is as relaxed and charmed as the
couple who own this homestead; Ion Pop, nicknamed “Popicu” by his enchanting
wife, Ge $ a, is one of Romania's most sought-after folk musicians, and is acknowledged
internationally for his contribution to the preservation of traditional music. Popicu
and Ge $ a have two wooden houses (including their original 150-year-old home) and
a modern cottage each with guest accommodations; here, at the foot of the Gutai
Mountains, they farm with bees, fish and chickens, and share their garden with three
lawn-mowing sheep and an obedient shepherd dog. Lodging options range from
en-suite rooms in the modern cottage, to rooms with shared bathrooms, and two-
bedroom suites with private facilities. Most of the rooms enjoy a view over the sur-
rounding farm landscape; some have private balconies. Ge $ a prepares hearty meals,
served in the traditional dining room of the main house; she's also mastering English,
and loves taking guests out on the road to see the sights, crossing herself meaningfully
each time she starts the car. Some units have en-suite bathroom.
Hoteni Village 37A, Mara Valley. & 0722-979-048 or 0262/37-4546. 11 units. 20 € -25 € ($25-$31) per person per
night. No credit cards. Amenities: Kitchen; dining room; living room w/TV stereo.
Pensiunea Ileana Teleptean Vadu Izea is practically on the southern edge of
Sighet; development here has benefited tremendously from Belgian and French eco-
nomic support, and you're likely to witness a blurring of traditional and contempo-
rary lifestyles. Arguably the best guesthouse here is Casa Teleptean, owned and run by
vivacious Illeana who doesn't speak English, but is permanently beaming and busy.
You'll recognize the house by its superb carved gateway and the collection of red pots
that decorate the tree next to it. Topped by a beautifully carved roof, the three-story
house offers neatly appointed, simple guest rooms with wooden floors, rugs, and beds
covered with clean, patterned linens. Most of these have one bathroom between two
rooms. On the second floor there are two carpeted rooms with en-suite bathrooms
(showers only); these also share a terrace with wonderful views. Also on the property
is a traditional “honeymoon” apartment, filled with woolen blankets and tapestries.
There's also a garden terrace area where Ileana serves excellent home-cooked meals; her
children (who speak some English) are part of a traditional music group who often
put on entertainment for guests. While here, visit the local museum, which is also the
oldest house in the village, built in 1750; you can also arrange private tours of the area
by contacting Ramona Ardelean ( & 0744/82-7829 ).
Vadu Izei 506. & 0262/33-0474 or 0742-492-240. 9 units. 20 € -25 € ($25-$31) per person per night. No credit
cards. In room:TV.
The Priest's House, Botiza (Pensiunea Bebecaru) Although it's known as the
“Priest's House,” these accommodations are firmly under the management of the
priest's delightful wife, Victoria Bebecaru. The couple may not speak a word of English