Romania - Eastern Europe - page 525

his 750-year-old aristocratic heritage by restoring a series of houses scattered around
the rural village; they've become luxurious and lovely cottagey guest rooms for visitors
seeking an authentic treat in the heart of Transylvania. With a population of 500,
Miclo @ oara's village life is confined to old people sitting on benches outside their
homes, literally waiting for the cows to come home. These villagers are descendants of
the Szeklers who came to Transylvania to defend the eastern border of their empire.
At the main house—or “Hunting Manor”—there's a lounge with fireplace, and
drawing rooms with books and antiques. There's also a 17th-century wine cellar,
where dinners are usually served. Guest quarters are spread around the village,
although you can stay in the old “serfs' house,” near the main kitchen. Painted a fan-
tastic blue, it's a favorite of regular visitors, so you'll need to reserve it in advance. Not
that it really matters: Lodgings are all immaculate, with solid wooden floors, antique
furniture, ceramic wood-burning fires, good lighting, comfortable beds, and wonder-
ful modern bathrooms. There are no televisions or radios; instead, there's plenty of
atmosphere and an in-room sauna.
To keep you busy between breakfast and dinnertime, the Count offers scheduled
activities; spend the day with a shepherd, or hang with a villager, ride on a cart, go
horseback riding, or milk the cows; there are visits to neighboring villages, and the
option of fishing or hiking. Tudor himself studied to be a vet, and birders should ask
if he's available for a specialized tour. There are also various cultural excursions and
explorations of local natural phenomena, including the nearby cave where the lost
children of Hamelin supposedly made their reappearance. One drawback may be
adhering to the daily program of organized events, so it's worth asking for a detailed
schedule well in advance so you can request any tailor-made changes. Also note that
dinner is communal; if you'd prefer privacy, make prior arrangements. In summer, it's
worth requesting at least one outdoor dinner. If you've got your own car, this is a fan-
tastic base from which to explore southern Transylvania, the only problem being the
treacherous potholed road leading to the village itself.
Miclo@oara. & 0267/31-4088 or 0742-202-586 for reservations . Fax [phone]. www.transylvaniancastle.com.
8 units. 90 € ($113) double. Rates include breakfast. Lunch or dinner: 18 € ($23) per person, including wine. All-inclu-

($288) double. Last-minute deals and long-stay discounts available. MC, V. Credit card payment incurs
3% penalty. Amenities: Dining areas; wine cellar; airport and train station transfers from Bucharest or Bra@ov; wide
range of excursions and experiential adventures; horseback riding; laundry. In room:A/C, tea- and coffeemaking facil-
ity, hair dryer, sauna.
SIGHI!OARA
Sighi@oara is 221km (137 miles) NW of Bucharest
Medieval Sighi @ oara is the only inhabited citadel of its kind in Europe; remarkably
preserved, it's earned its place on UNESCO's World Heritage list. Of course there's
also plenty of hype around the fact that Vlad # epe @ (aka Count Dracula) was born
here, but that's not the reason to make this excursion. Built in the 15th century, this
hilltop fortress town is a gorgeous, tiny jumble of cobbled streets lined with medieval
houses and towers jutting menacingly from the battlements—compact, yet with a
myriad ancient nooks and crannies, this is a wonderful place to explore, and easily bet-
ter than the more popular Bran Castle.
ARRIVAL, ORIENTATION & GETTING AROUND
Sighi @ oara has a fairly good run of train connections with Bra @ ov and Bucharest, and
there is a fairly extensive range of services to and from other towns likely to be on your

sive rate: 230 €