Romania - Eastern Europe - page 506

SOUTHERN BUCHAREST
Mânâstirea Radu Vodâ On a hill at the edge of the Dâmbovi $ a River, the church
of the Prince Radu Monastery is set in a serene garden; built in 1613 and 1614, it
replaced an earlier wooden structure. Bright, immaculate frescoes by Gheorghe
Tattarescu were added in the 19th century. For a sublime experience, come for the
liturgy, when worshipers kneel at the feet of the priest; as Mass is read and sung, you'll
be hard-pressed to imagine that the Romanian language was not developed precisely
for such heavenly devotions. Across the road from the monastery is the mid-18th-
century Biserica Orthodox â “Bucur Ciobanul” ( & 0724-506-843; 8am-6pm daily),
reached via a steep stairway. Dedicated to the shepherd Bucur, attributed with the
founding of Bucharest, the walls of this tiny church are covered in icons, executed in
various styles and rendered on wood and glass.
Str. Radu Vodâ 24A. Free admission. Daily 8am-1am. Liturgy: Mon-Fri 8am; Sat-Sun 8:30am; Daily 6pm and
10:30pm, each service lasts between 1 1 ⁄ 2 and 4 1 ⁄ 2 hours.
Muzeul de Istorie al Evreilor din România The Romanian military is known
to have played a devastating role in the Holocaust, and this Jewish History Museum
is a good lest-we-forget reminder of Bucharest's once-prominent Jewish community.
The museum occupies a synagogue built in 1850 and is centered on a statue mourn-
fully remembering the 350,000 Romanians who perished at Auschwitz. Today, you
can still visit the Choral Temple ( & 021/312-2169; services), a red-brick synagogue
on Strada Vineri to the east of the Old Town; built in 1857, it stands at the edge of
an elegant neighborhood touched by the hand of 19th-century architect Marcel Iancu.
Attended by the city's tiny, dwindling Jewish community, services are held 8am and
7pm Sunday to Friday, and at 8:30am and 7pm Saturdays.
Str. Mâmulari 3. & 021/311-0870. Free admission. Sun-Wed and Fri 9am-1pm; Thurs 9am-4pm.
Palatul Cotroceni If you visit just one secular attraction in Bucharest, make it this
one; the guided tour provides excellent historical insights and is a worthwhile survey
of architectural trends in Romania. Cotroceni Palace (the official residence of the
president, hence the tight security) was built by Carol I in the late 19th century. It
became the loveless home of Ferdinand, his nephew and adopted heir, and the young
Queen Marie (see “Quiet Escape to the Queen's Nest,” p. 116), but has undergone
many transformations since the initial designs were executed. During Ceau @ escu's dic-
tatorship it was used as the “Pioneer's Palace,” where young leaders were schooled in
the ways of Communism, and—after the devastating earthquake of 1977—restored
as a guesthouse, although it never served this function. You will pass through a host
of reception rooms, sleeping quarters, and private chambers, each styled to a particu-
lar theme: the German New Renaissance dining room, private dining quarters of
Carol I in Florentine style; Oriental painting room used by Queen Marie and her chil-
dren; the hunting room which showcases trophies hunted by King Ferdinand, as well
as bearskin rugs hunted by Ceau @ escu. Interestingly King Ferdinand's apartments are
done out in a far more dainty, feminine style than Queen Marie's, whose quarters are
quite austere—living proof of who wore the pants in this relationship. Note: You need
to phone ahead and book one of the tours, and you must bring your passport as a
security deposit; ask your taxi driver to wait for you, or order a cab in advance, as the
museum entrance is on a busy road in the middle of nowhere.
B-dul Geniului 1. & 021/317-3107/6. Fax [phone]. Admission L20 ($7.20/£3.85). Tues-Sun 10am-5pm.