Romania - Eastern Europe - page 498

Bucharest institution, La Mama is now a chain of restaurants known for their danger-
ously large (and inexpensive) portions of definitively Romanian meat dishes. While
the country-style soup, sarmale, and tochitura â (stew made with chunks of meat,
sausage, and liver) all seem to emulate village cooking, there's an overwhelming lack
of imagination, and the food while filling is never memorable.
EXPENSIVE
Balthazar FRENCH-ASIAN One of the city's finest restaurants, this is a
stunning example of Bucharest's contemporary aspirations; the owners describe the
atmosphere as “sensual-chic,” which pretty much describes the elegant rusticity of the
place. Start with Peking duck blinis (small Eastern European pancakes), tuna “cigars,”
or smoked eel on a bed of cheese. Mains include beef pavé smothered in the chef 's
secret “Balthazar” sauce and served with stuffed artichokes and tomatoes, lamb rib
chops served with bamboo and a cherry sauce, and blue fin tuna steak with pineapple
carpaccio, fennel, and bamboo salad. There's also sea bream with spinach mousse
served with black tiger shrimp sauce. If you're after a lighter meal, opt for the Asian
salad with black tiger shrimps and ginger sauce. The dessert menu is almost an occa-
sion on its own: Who can decide between wild berry sorbet, chocolate surprise, and
cheesecake served with ginger ice cream?
Str. Dumbrava Ro@ie 2. & 021/212-1460. www.balthazar.ro. Reservations essential. Main courses L33-L74
($12-$27/£6.30-£14). MC, V. Daily noon-midnight.
Casa Doina ROMANIAN/MEDITERRANEAN In Bucharest's leafy north,
among the embassies and mansions, this classy establishment occupies a fine 18th-
century villa with a gorgeous garden terrace for summer dining (which is also heated
in winter); this is a favored place for the old school air-kissing crowd, where for-
eigners hobnob with the rich while chef Doru Dobre cooks up a storm for his sophis-
ticated clientele. Start with polenta topped with bacon and shaved cheese, topped with
an egg and served with sour cream, or have the in-house version of sarmale, sour cab-
bage leaves stuffed with meat and served (of course) with polenta. The menu is not
too complicated, with plenty to keep both unadventurous and keen-to-experiment
taste buds happy; chicken filet is stuffed with Roquefort and finished off with bacon
and Parmesan; braised ducking is served with sauerkraut and grilled duck liver with
cherry sauce. Fresh fish is available at the daily market price; their swordfish is gently
fried in olive oil. Finish off with nougat glace with egg custard and maple syrup.
!os. Kiseleff 4. & 021/222-6717. www.casadoina.ro. Reservations recommended. Main courses L25-L70 ($9-$25/
£5-£13). MC, V. Daily 11am-1am.
MODERATE
Bistro Atheneu ROMANIAN/ECLECTIC This atmospheric bistro, going
strong since 1924, features an indoor fountain and bohemian decor that could be culled
from a flea market, with expired antique clocks, dangling bells, violins, and framed mir-
rors, even an ancient cash register. The kitchen may be relying a bit on its reputation,
but it remains a reliable choice for wholesome, tasty meals at equally reliable prices. Seat-
ing is scattered around a rambling warren of spaces, and the menu is chalked up daily;
on offer will be the usual mainstays like grilled pork, grilled chicken, beef entrecôte,
chicken livers, and lasagna. Romanian specialties include sarmale and tochitura (pork
stew); if you're lucky (or you could inquire if the chef will prepare it), the delectable