Romania - Eastern Europe - page 489

1977, and Ceau @ escu. The capital limped its way out of the 20th century, burdened
with memories of devouring bulldozers, violent protests, and state-sanctioned mas-
sacres. Hard to believe that a mere decade later the pride and promise of the entire
nation can be gauged in the strut and swagger of the city's youthful student popula-
tion, their stride (and blood) quickened by new prospects and fortunes to be made
with E.U. ascension.
Bucharest today is once again a vibrant, culturally astute capital. Besides a sustained
program of theater, music, and opera, it draws major international music acts that fill
up the city's stadiums with up-for-it crowds: Within 1 month in 2006, Billy Idol, 50
Cent, Depeche Mode, and the Deftones all performed here, attracting energetic
crowds, bound up in a perhaps worrisome embrace of all things Western. But while
Ceau @ escu might have torn out much of its antiquity, replacing century-old winding
roads with pencil-straight boulevards, you can still get lost in the old soul of this riv-
eting city. Playful curiosities, in which the past tangles with the future, remain—nuns
reach into their habits to answer ringing cellphones. Mafioso-wannabes show off in
flashy new cars, racing past street-side Gypsies selling flowers. Men on the sidewalks
offer their services as talking scales. And in antiques stores, treasures gather dust while
locals stock up on symbols of modern consumerism. The signs are all there; unsup-
pressible Bucharest is shedding its skin and edging its way into a prosperous future.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE International flights arrive at Henri Coanda International Airport
( ! os. Bucure @ ti-Ploie @ ti; & 021/201-4050 or 021/204-1423), still generally referred
to by its former name, Otopeni, which lies 16km (10 miles) north of the city and has
a relatively small, but moderately chaotic international terminal; the information
desk ( & 021/204-1000 ) is located in the departures lounge. Note that all the taxis
and even the shuttle services at the airport will overcharge you (20 € -25 € /$25-$31

€ €

/$13-$15) for the trip into the city; if you have a hotel
reservation, have them arrange a transfer. A reliable airport service is Fly Taxi Com-
pany ( & 021/9440 ), which charges L1.50 (55¢) per kilometer, or try one of the com-
panies listed under “Getting Around,” below. Every 15 minutes, bus no. 783 stops at
Terminal A (arrivals) and heads into the city (40 min.); buy tickets from the driver.
BY TRAIN Trains from various European capitals arrive at Bucharest's Gara de
Nord (Pia $ a Gar â de Nord 1; & 021/223-2060; www.cfr.ro), a large, well-organized
station that also has connections with almost every destination around the country.
BY BUS Think twice before tackling long-distance trips through Romania, and that
includes any international journey toward Bucharest. If you must, then Eurolines
(Str. Buze @ ti 44; & 021/230-5489; www.eurolines.ro) is your best for the long, ardu-
ous journey from Paris, Madrid, Brussels, or Frankfurt.
CITY LAYOUT & NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF
To the north of the city, broad tree-lined boulevards are home to fantastic, crumbling
mansions, including foreign embassies and important diplomatic residences. Cobble-
stone side streets shelter gorgeous homes, many clad in layers of ivy and tucked behind
overgrown gardens. It's a neighborhood with an opulent shabbiness, unencumbered by
drab apartment blocks or concrete monstrosities; if there's one area in the city that's good
for cycling or jogging, this is it. Two major roads, ! oseaua Kiseleff and Bulevard Aviato-
rilor, stretch from the lakes at the northern extremity of the city to Pia $ a Victoriei,

instead of around 10 -12