Romania - Eastern Europe - page 487

TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS
In a country where the service industry was for a long time associated with spying on
guests for the Communist government, service does not always meet expectations, but
accommodations are steadily improving. Hotels are rated according to a star system,
which is a moderately informative guide to the type of facilities you can expect to find.
However, genuine quality often hides in the details, and there are many three-star
properties that are more intimate and classy than their four- or even five-star neigh-
bors. Most Pensiunea (basically, a family-run guesthouse or scaled-down version of a
hotel) are rated two or three stars, because they offer meals and bedrooms with en-
suite facilities; in the same price category, however, you may find a very much better
villa which simply doesn't have an elevator.
Home stays are an excellent way of getting to grips with village or community life;
in rural areas, there are an unprecedented number of “agritourism” schemes enabling
you to stay with local families at low cost. Be warned, however, that life for some of
these families may be fairly simple; you'll be expected to put up with similar condi-
tions. Always check if there is regular hot water, electricity supply, and bathroom facil-
ities (in this chapter, you'll find mention of any problems in this regard). For extensive
home-stay options across the country, contact A.N.T.R.E.C. (National Association of
Rural, Ecological and Cultural Tourism; Str. Maica Alexandra 7, Bucharest; & 021/
223-7024; fax [phone]; www.antrec.ro), which has an excellent online booking
system with helpful details of its network of guesthouses.
When booking a room, note that a “double” usually refers to a twin-bedded unit;
double-bedded guest rooms are frequently referred to as “matrimonials.” To eliminate
any misunderstanding, it's best to request a “matrimonial double,” and top this with
a request for a “king-size” bed, which will not really impact the size of the bed, but
will ensure that you don't have two singles. And be suspicious of accepting accommo-
dations when you're told that only the expensive suite is available; this is usually pure
nonsense.
TIPS ON DINING
Meat is big in Romania, and you're generally expected to be a carnivore to cope with
traditional “Romanian” cuisine that favors pork, but includes plenty of fish, widely
considered a vegetable in these parts. Traditional staples include m â m â lig â , a polenta-
type pottage made from cornmeal, and sarmale, parcels made with cabbage or vine
leaves, stuffed with rice or meat. Specialties will vary from region to region, as will the
tastes of similar dishes, prepared according to local traditions. Generally, most places
you visit will have restaurants, bistros, less formal taverns (tavern â ), and wine cellars
(crama) that double as atmospheric dining halls. Some of these places will have the
formal stuffiness preferred in certain Eastern European circles, while down-home-
looking eateries are often just fine for a homey, affordable meal. Most restaurants will
also have a terrace (teras â ), ideal in summer. Romania is also known for its potent
homemade brandies, made from plums and other fruit; don't pass up the offer of a tot
of $ uic â (sometimes called palinca ), sure to raise your body temperature.
TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS
The best-known company for Romania is U.K.-based Transylvania Uncovered
(1 Atkinson Court, Fell Foot, Newby Bridge, Cumbria, United Kingdom LA128NW;
& 0044-1539-531258; www.beyondtheforest.com) which offers dozens of specialized