Poland - Eastern Europe - page 463

nice hotels, with at least one in each price category, including possibly the choicest bou-
tique hotel in the country.
As with many cities in this part of Poland, Toru ^ began life as a stronghold for the
Teutonic Knights, a German order that was originally invited by the Polish kings to
secure the area, but later turned on its hosts and amassed its own empire. Tensions
between the Knights and Toru ^ residents traditionally ran high, culminating in a
moment of what must have been sheer madness in 1454, when the citizens stormed
the Knights' castle just outside the Old Town and tore it apart brick by brick. Amaz-
ingly, the rubble is still there (looking not unlike it must have looked 550 years ago),
and for the price of 1 z l (30¢/20p) you're free to walk around the ruins. The siege
effectively ended the Knights' domination of the city.
To r u ^ grew prosperous as a member of the Hanseatic League and trade along the
Wis l a River, but the town fell to the Prussians following the Polish partition at the end
of the 18th century. Toru ^ was under German rule for the next 125 years, until the
end of World War I. German troops occupied the city in September 1939 and stayed
until February 1945, driven out by the Polish army. Thankfully, the town escaped
heavy damage during the fighting.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE To r u ^ lies on major bus and rail links, with frequent daily
service to major cities. By road, it's equidistant from Pozna ^ , Gda ^ sk, and Warsaw.
Figure on 2 to 3 hours' driving time from each.
GETTING AROUND To r u ^ 's historic area, comprising the Old and New Towns,
is largely closed off to motor vehicles, so walking is the only option.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Toru ^ Tourist Information Center (Rynek
Staromiejski 25; & 056/621-09-31 ) is centrally located on the Old Town Square and
staffed by young, friendly English speakers. They can help find hotels, suggest restau-
rants, and bring you up-to-date on anything that might be going on in town of spe-
cial interest.
WHERE TO STAY
To r u ^ has some very nice hotels scattered in and around the Old and New Towns.
Finding a room is usually not a problem outside of the busy summer months of July
and August.
Expensive
Hotel Heban Occupying two renovated town houses in the area just between the
Old and New Towns. One building, much more atmospheric, dates from the 17th
century, the other, across the street, from the 19th century. The latter, more modern
building is pitched more toward business clients. Ask for room no. 3 in the older
building—a picture-perfect double with hardwood floors and wood-beamed ceilings,
and just waiting for a vase of beautiful flowers to complete the picture.
Male Garbary 7. & 056/652-15-55. Fax [phone]. www.hotel-heban.com.pl. 20 units. 300 zl ($100/£55) dou-
ble. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room:TV, dataport, hair dryer.
Moderate
Hotel Petite Fleur A boutique hotel occupying two stunningly renovated cen-
turies-old burghers' houses. The reception area and cozy little reading room off to the