Poland - Eastern Europe - page 461

party animal “Superman” at night, serving cocktails to the local glitterati. Dluga 77/78.
& 058/301-55-66.
Kamienica By day, the best place on Mariacka for that much-needed coffee or tea
break. By night, a great little bar with a cozy feel and more-than-decent food. Mariacka
37/39. & 058/301-12-30.
Ksantypa One of the most popular clubs in town for techno, trance, drum and
bass, or whatever happens to be on the DJ's mind that night. Draws a young crowd
who come mainly for the chemicals and the beat. Piastowka 210. & 058/553-14-59.
Papryka Thoroughly enjoyable night out at a relatively laid-back Sopot bar and
nightclub, where nearly everything—from the leather sofas to the walls—is bathed in
warm, red hues. Great DJs and usually just quiet enough to converse under the music.
Grunwaldzka 11. & 058/551-74-76.
Slowi^ski National Park
There's a remarkable landscape of wetlands and giant sand dunes, butted
up against the Baltic Sea, about 2 hour's ride or drive northwest of the Tri-
Cities. The Slowi^ski National Park is unique enough to be included on the
UNESCO's list of protected biospheres, and makes for nice day out away
from the bustle of Gda^sk and the Tri-Cities' crowded beaches.
The park begins about 2km (1 mile) west of the seaside resort of Leba.
Leba itself is not much, but keep pressing on to see the park's two lakes
and the enormous, shifting sand dunes that rise to a height of some 40m
(125 ft.).
The park has something for everyone. The protected wetlands make it a
great spot for birders, and in and among the more common species, you'll
find rarer sorts like cranes and black storks. World War II history buffs will
be interested in hearing how the Nazis used the unique sandy landscape as
a training ground for Rommel's Afrika Korps. The Germans also conducted
early experiments in rocketry here, and just west of the hamlet of Rabka,
you'll find an early and eerie-looking launchpad and a small museum. And
of course there's the amazing giant dunes themselves, stretching for a
length of about 5km (3 miles). The dunes migrate up to 10m (30 ft.) every
year. After you've hiked awhile into the center of the dunes, you'll swear
you're in the Sahara. Poland feels far, far away.
Cars are restricted from entering the park area. In nice weather, walking
is a pleasant option. But you can also rent bikes by hour, or hitch a ride on
a horse-drawn cart, electric trolley, or even a golf cart. To get here from the
Tri-Cities, make your way north to Gdynia and take the bus (15 zl/$5/£2.75)
for Leba. If you're driving, follow the E28 highway in the direction of
Slupsk, bearing right at L7bork. Allow at least 2 hours by bus or car along
often-difficult roads.
Slowi^ski National Park. Admission 4 zl ($1.35/£0.75). Daily 8am to dark.