Poland - Eastern Europe - page 450

hotbed of labor unrest and strikes. Roundtable talks in the late 1980s saw the govern-
ment agree to a power-sharing arrangement that in 1989 led to the first semifree elec-
tions and a nationwide political triumph for Solidarity. You can still see the shipyards,
about a 15-minute walk north of the Old Town, and visit an inspirational museum,
the “Road to Freedom” (Drogi do Wolno 1 ci), that details those tense moments in
1980 and the eventual overthrow of Communism.
Gda ^ sk is the largest and southernmost of a string of three Baltic resorts known as
the “Trójmiasto” (Tri-Cities). Sopot, about 6km (4 miles) farther along the coast, is
smaller, quieter, and more exclusive. Sopot was traditionally a retreat for the very
wealthy, and while today it's probably better known as the Baltic party town par excel-
lence, it still retains a whiff of old money. It's here too where you'll find the most eas-
ily accessible, and acceptably clean, beaches in summer. Gdynia, about 15km (10
miles) to the north, is the least impressive of the three. Not that long ago Gdynia was
a relatively quiet coastal village, but it was built up in a hurry after World War I, when
Polish authorities fashioned it into the country's busiest Baltic seaport. A convenient
rail line links all three towns, with departures in all directions several times an hour
during the day.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE Port Lotniczy Gda ^ sk (also known as Lech Wa l7 sa International Air-
port) (Slowackiego 200; & 058/348-11-11 ) is about 10km (6 miles) west of the city.
The airport has added several flights in recent years, and now has good direct connec-
tions to major European cities like London (Luton and Stansted) and Frankfurt, and
several Scandinavian cities, among others. To get to town from the airport, take bus
B, which runs twice hourly during daylight hours to Gda ^ sk's central G l ówny train
station. The trip takes three 1.40 z l (50¢/30p) tickets. Leave about 30 minutes for the
journey (more during rush hour). A taxi into town will cost about 40 z l ($13/£7). A
taxi to Sopot will run about 50 z l ($17/£9) and to Gdynia about 70 z l ($23/£12).
BY TRAIN For most arrivals, Gda ^ sk's G l ówny train station (Dworzec PKP) (Pod-
wale Grodzkie 1l; & 058/721-94-36 ) is the first port of a call. The station is just 5
minutes' walk (below a major highway) from the center of the city. Gda ^ sk is well
served by the Polish state railroad, and departures to Warsaw and other major cities
are frequent. Local trains to Sopot and Gdynia (see below) also depart from here. Buy
domestic tickets at the ground-floor ticket windows; purchase international tickets
upstairs.
BY BUS The main bus station, Dworzec PKS (ul. 3 Maje 12; & 058/302-15-32 ),
is located just behind the train station. The Old Town is an easy walk, passing through
the train station and then below the highway using the underpass. As Poland's Baltic
hub, the city is a primary destination for domestic and international bus lines.
BY CAR Gda ^ sk is a traffic nightmare, so leave plenty of time to get here. The first
problem is the major and seemingly permanent road construction, which has badly
tied up routes coming from all directions. The main roads running south are the E75
to Toru ^ and the E77 to Warsaw. The E28 is the main route west toward Germany.
Coming from the west, it skirts Gda ^ sk as it heads south. The E28 is someday
planned to be a major four-lane north-south artery, but certainly not any time in the