Poland - Eastern Europe - page 448

might survive as a nation. Those hopes proved short-lived. A few months later, in
November 1794, the Polish uprising was crushed, and Poland was later divided among
Prussia, Russia, and Austria in the infamous Polish partition. The painting itself, exe-
cuted while Poland was still partitioned, was a bold national statement at the time,
and still evokes strong national sentiment. In the years following World War II, the
painting was hidden from view lest its anti-Russian sentiments offend the Soviet over-
lords. After the rise of the Solidarity in the 1980s, the painting was finally unveiled to
the general public in 1985.
Purkyniego 11. & 071/344-16-61. Daily 9am-5pm.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) The National Museum is located
just down from the Panorama Rac l awicka and you can use the same admission ticket
for entry to both. This museum is interesting primarily because it combines the col-
lections of both the cities of Wroc l aw and Lwów, and is very strong on medieval paint-
ing and sculpture from both eastern and western Poland. That said, unless you're
particularly interested in Poland or have some very specific historical knowledge,
you're unlikely to get much from the very detailed holdings here.
Pl. Powstancow Warszawy 5. & 071/343-88-30. Wed-Sun 10am-4pm.
OUTSIDE OF WROCL AW
If you have a couple of days to spare and are seeking relief from the city, Wroc l aw is a
good jumping-off spot for exploring the Polish side of the Sudeten (Sudety) moun-
tains that form the country's southern border with the Czech Republic. Both sides of
the border are lined with little resort towns for hiking in summer and skiing in win-
ter. The tallest peaks are in the 1,600m (5,000-ft.) range; most of the area is covered
by the Karkonosze National Park, with its miles and miles of restorative hiking trails.
The largest town in the region is picturesque Jelenia Góra, about 100km (60 miles)
southwest of Wroc l aw. From Jelenia Góra it's just a short bus ride to the resorts of
Szklarska Por 7 ba and Karpacz. Of the two, Szklarska Por 7 ba is prettier, but Karpacz
is closer to the trails. Several buses and trains daily make the trip from Wroc l aw to Jele-
nia Góra, with buses being slightly faster. By car, it's a 2-hour drive. If you're driving
to the Czech Republic, the area is an easy stopover. The main Czech border crossing
is only about 30km (18 miles) down the road from Jelenia Góra.
WROCL AW AFTER DARK
Wroc l aw is renowned for its theater, long regarded as some of the most daring and
experimental in the country. But for non-Polish speakers, this is likely to be of little
interest. The Tourist Information Office at the Rynek is a good source of information
on more accessible performances of classical music and opera. The Wro c l aw Philhar-
monic (Pi l sudskiego 19; & 071/343-85-28 ) is a good bet for an excellent concert in
season on a Friday or Saturday night. The Lower Silesian Opera (Opera Dolno 1 l § ska,
2 widnicka 35; & 071/372-43-57 ) is one of the country's leading companies.
For culture of the lower-brow sort, Wroc l aw is a great drinking and party town. Its
festive spirit, not surprisingly, is bolstered by the tens of thousands of college students
here. The university area has more than its fair share of beer gardens, cafes, and cock-
tail bars. Try the places along Ruska and Ku 3 nica. Naturally, the Rynek itself is a major