Poland - Eastern Europe - page 447

Rodeo Drive TEX-MEX One of the better Polish chain restaurants to emerge
in the last few years; this one features “Texas-style” steaks, ribs, and burgers. Ordinar-
ily, you could skip the America-themed restaurants in favor of more exotic Polish fare,
but in a land of mediocre burgers, this place really does stand out if you're in the
mood. The portions are enormous, so even 6-foot-2 cowboys might be content with
a “cowgirl” portion—even if the waitress does raise an eyebrow when you order it. The
corner Rynek location is one of the better spots to people-watch.
Rynek18/21. & 071/343-96-15. Lunch and dinner items 18 zl-24 zl ($6-$8/£3.20-£4.30). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-10pm.
EXPLORING
The main tourist attractions can be seen in a few hours of leisurely strolling. The nat-
ural place to start, and the best place to get your bearings, is the enormous Rynek.
The Rynek is dominated (and that really is the right word in this case) by the enor-
mous Town Hall, the Ratusz, at the center of the square. The Rynek is lined some of
the most cheerful baroque and Renaissance facades to grace a Polish town square. On
the northwest corner of the square is the foreboding, Gothic red-brick St. Elizabeth
Church (Ko 1 ciól 2 w. El 9 biety), Wroc l aw's most impressive. You can climb the tower,
but keep in mind it's over 90m (280 ft.) high. To the east of the Rynek is another
evocative and beautiful church, the Church of Mary Magdalene (Ko 1 ciól 2 w. Marii
Magdaleny). Just to the west of the Rynek, past the Tourist Information Office, is the
smaller Plac Solny, the former salt market that's now given over to an enormous
flower market. Off the square, the side streets in all directions merit a couple of hours
of ambling. North of the Rynek, and along the Odra River, is the university district,
where you'll find some of best nightspots. To the northwest of the Rynek, around
Kie l ba 1 nicza, is Wroc l aw's arty district—formed amid some weathered but pretty
blocks of buildings that survived the onslaught of World War II. Here you'll find a
small street called the Old Shambles, “Stare Jatki.” This was formerly the butchers'
quarter, and is now filled with art galleries and coffee bars.
From the university district, follow the Odra River to right over a series of small,
picturesque islands to the Ostrów Tumski, with another clutch of medieval churches.
Much of the river area was under heavy construction in 2006, and once it's all fin-
ished, this will be wonderful place to spend time.
Town Hall (Ratusz) One of Poland's largest and most awe-inspiring town
halls. It was originally built in the late 13th century, but added on to and renovated
time and time again down through the centuries. It's lost its administrative function
and now serves a mostly decorative role—a place to situate a huge tower and hang an
astronomical clock. The city museum inside is worth a quick peek, but more to see
the inside of the building than to peruse the exhibits at length.
Rynek. & 071/347-16-93. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm.
Panorama of the Battle of Raclawice (Panorama Raclawicka) This
enormous 360-degree “panorama” painting dates from the late 19th century and
depicts the battle of Rac l awice on April 4, 1794, when a Polish force led by national
hero Tadeusz Ko 1 ciuszko defeated the Russian army. The battle came at a time when
Poland faced threats from the east, west, and south, and aroused hopes that Poland