Poland - Eastern Europe - page 442

signs for St º9 yska Polana, and returning to Zakopane via the red trail along the
St º9 yska Valley. Another popular hike to a different part of the mountains is to follow
the red trail to Morskie Oko, an Alpine lake in the far southern corner of Poland's
share of the High Tatras. Most travel agencies in town offer packages that include
transportation to the trail head to the east of Zakopane, but once you get off the bus
you'll have to walk or take a horse cart (40 zl/$13/£7) the 9km (5 1 ⁄ 2 miles) uphill to
the lake.
In winter, the most popular hill for skiing is Kasprowy Wierch, with several slopes
of all difficulty levels starting from here. To reach it, take a bus from Zakopane to
Ku 3 nice, and then by cable car to the peak.
Zakopane is also a good base for a rafting the Dunajec River, east of the Tatras along
Poland's border with Slovakia. In nice weather, this is a fabulous day out, especially for
kids, on traditional timber boats, led by Górale mountain men kitted out in their folk
garb. (For a longer description of the trip, see “Slovakia,” p. 633.) The boating center
on the Polish side is at Sromowce K º ty. The 2 wiat travel agency (Zamoyskiego 12;
& 018/210-31-99 ) is one of several agencies in Zakopane that arrange trips, includ-
ing transportation, for about 120 z l ($40/£22) a person.
SHOPPING
Krupówki is jammed wall-to-wall with souvenir shops, gold and silver dealers, and
outdoor outfitters, all competing for your attention with a jumble of cafes, restaurants,
pizza joints, and refreshment stands. Just about everything you might need, you'll find
along this busy 5 or 6 blocks. Most of the gift and souvenir stores peddle in the same
sorts of imported, mass-produced junk—wooden toys, T-shirts, hats and scarves, and
mock traditional clothing that sadly have little connection to Zakopane. For some-
thing more authentic, try looking in at Cepelia, with two locations on Krupówki
(nos. 2 and 48; & 018/201-50-48 ). Here you'll find locally produced carved wooden
boxes, animal pelts, leather goods, and the odd knickknack or two. Art Gallery Yam
(Krupówki 63; & 018/206-69-84 ) is about as funky as it gets in Zakopane. Check
out the rotating exhibitions of contemporary Polish painters. Some riveting modern
Tatra landscapes, and other works that draw on the absurdist visual style of Polish art
in the '70s and '80s.
One souvenir you won't be able to miss are those little rounds of sheep's milk
cheese, Oscypek, that you see everywhere around town. The recipe apparently goes
back some 500 years. The salty taste goes great with beer.
AFTER DARK
Paparazzi The local version of a regional chain of cocktail bar/nightclubs occupies
a beautiful creek-side location that is the after-hours spot in town for a cold beer or
glass of wine. Also offers passable versions of international dishes like chicken burri-
tos and Caesar salads. Ul. Gen. Galicy 8. & 018/206-32-51. Daily noon-1am.
Piano Bar Just next to Art Gallery Yam and draws on its artistic funkiness for a laid-
back, hipster feel. Though it's just down a small alley from the Krupówki throng, it's
a world away in attitude. Krupówki 63 (in the little alleyway). Daily 4pm-midnight.