Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
especially strong on Polish authors in translation, but has thousands of titles under all
conceivable categories (plus a very cute cafe and a quiet, contemplative ambience
highly conducive to reading and thinking). The other is
Austeria
in Kazimierz, next
to the High Synagogue (Józefa 38;
&
012/430-68-89
). Here you'll find hundreds of
titles on Judaica, Polish history, and the Holocaust, as well as some incredibly beauti-
ful photographs, posters, CDs, and reproductions of old maps.
Kraków is a good place to find that exclusive bottle of Polish vodka. Two stores
stand out.
Szambelan
(Go
l
ebia 2;
&
012/430-2409;
www.szambelan.com.pl) and
F. H. Herbert
(Grodzka 59; no phone). Szambelan is best known for its exotic bottle
shapes, but both stores carry a nice range of the best straight and flavored vodkas, as
well as an excellent selection of wines and other beverages.
KRAKÓW AFTER DARK
Kraków is the cultural hub of southern Poland, and as such supports an active pro-
gram of live theater, dance, classical music, and opera. The
Cultural Information
Center
(
2
w. Jana 2;
&
012/421-77-87
) is the first stop to find out what's on and see-
ing if tickets are available. The friendly staff can help guide you to the best events. The
center for classical music is the
Philharmonic Hall
(Zwierzyniecka 1;
&
012/422-
43-12;
box office Tues—Sat noon-7pm). The city supports several opera companies,
including the very good
Opera in S
l
owacki Theater
(Pl.
2
w Ducha 1;
&
012/422-
78-07;
www.opera.krakow.pl).
For drinking, dancing, and clubbing both the Old Town and Kazimierz are natural
areas to start a night crawl. The Old Town caters more to tourists and students from
nearby Jagellonian University; in Kazimierz the scene is more diverse and a little older,
with young professionals, artists, and hipsters of all sorts attracted to some of the best
clubs in central Europe.
Old Town
Ministerstwo
Emerging as probably Kraków's best venue for DJs and house music
(not to mention, the essential lava lamp decor!). The action starts late and runs until
dawn. Good location, just off the Main Square.
Szpitalna 1.
&
012/429-67-90.
www.klub
ministerstwo.pl. Tues-Sat 11pm-5am.
Nic Nowego
I hesitated before including this modern Irish-themed bar since it's so
popular with tourists and is in every other guidebook. But if you're looking for a vis-
itor-friendly place where English is spoken and the menu looks comforting and famil-
iar, you could do far worse. In addition to decent cocktails and conversation, you'll
find a nice array of burgers and sandwiches on the munchie menu. Breakfast is served
daily, and the scrambled eggs and coffee here are probably a lot better than what your
pension has planned for you.
2w. Krzy9e.
&
012/421-61-88.
Mon-Fri 7am-3am; Sat-Sun
10am-3am.
Pauza
You'll have to look around a bit for this moody little cocktail bar, which now
numbers among coolest drinking spots in the city despite few clues that it's even there.
Order at the bar and head for the chill-out lounge in the back.
Floria^ska 18/3.
&
0602/
63-78-33.
Daily noon-midnight.
