Poland - Eastern Europe - page 432

PODGÓRZE
South of Kazimierz, across the Vistula River, lies the wartime Jewish ghetto of
Podgórze. It was here, at today's Plac Bohaterów Getta, where thousands of the city's
Jews were forcibly moved and incarcerated in March 1941. Much of the area has since
been rebuilt, and walking the depressed streets today, you'll be hard-pressed to imag-
ine what it must have been like for thousands of Jews to be pent up here with only the
prospect of eventually being sent to the camps at Auschwitz or, more nearby, P l aszów.
The ghetto was eventually razed in 1943 and the inhabitants killed. Look for the
Apteka Pod Or l em on the Plac Bohaterów Getta, which today houses a small but fas-
cinating museum on the history of the ghetto. About 15-minute walk from the square
brings you to Oskar Schindler's former enamel factory. At press time, this was still
abandoned, but open to the public to walk around (this may change soon if plans go
forward to open a museum or art gallery here).
Apteka Pod Orlem You'll find an enthralling collection of photographs and
documents from life in the Podgórze ghetto, from its inception 1941 to its eventual
liquidation 2 years later.
Plac Bohaterów Getta 18. & 012/656-56-25. Admission 4 zl ($2/£1); free Mon. May-Oct Mon 10am-2pm, Tues-Sun
9:30am-5pm; Nov-Apr Mon 10am-2pm, Tues—Thurs 9am-4pm, Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 9am-4pm.
Oskar Schindler's Emalia Factory An essential stop for anyone interested in
the history of the Podgórze ghetto or in the film Schindler's List. Many of the scenes
were filmed here and you'll have the distinct sense of déjà vu just arriving at the
depressing scene. The factory is closed down, but occasionally the gates are open for
an impromptu “museum,” complete with English-speaking students who offer them-
selves as guides. Be sure to look through the guest book. More than once you'll see the
signature of a former worker here along with the words “because of Oskar Schindler
I am still alive.” Gripping.
Lipowa 4. No phone. Hours vary.
OUTSIDE OF KRAKÓW
Wieliczka Salt Mines I must confess to a touch of claustrophobia and for that
reason I don't get much out of this trip to a subterranean salt mine, about 16km (10
miles) southeast of Kraków. But many people—including the folks at the UNESCO
cultural heritage office—absolutely love it, so I'm bowing to popular will and giving
it two stars. Salt has been mined in the area for centuries, and talented miners and arti-
sans through the ages here have crafted some incredible chambers, bas reliefs, and stat-
ues from that once highly coveted white powder. The mine covers nine floors and goes
to a depth of some 300m (nearly 1,000 ft.). The highlights include an enormous salt
lake as well as St. Anthony's Chapel and the larger Chapel of St. Kinga. You can only
the visit the mine via a guided tour. Polish language tours run throughout the day;
English-language tours are less frequent, but still often enough (at least in summer)
that you won't have to wait long (last English tour is at 5pm). In winter, it's best to
time your arrival to the tour schedule (10am and 12:30pm). The tours cover three lev-
els of the mine and take about 2 hours. Be sure to pack a sweater since it's cool down
there, and wear comfortable shoes. You can reach Wieliczka easily by train or a special
minibus that leaves from the main train station. Several travel agencies in Kraków also
offer guided tours as a day trip.
Danilowicza 10 (Wieliczka). & 012/278-73-02. www.kopalnia.pl. Admission 60 zl ($20/£11). Mid-Apr to mid-Oct
daily 7:30am-7:30pm; mid-Oct to mid-Apr Tues-Sun 8am-4pm.