Poland - Eastern Europe - page 418

The pope's landmark trip to Poland in 1979, shortly after being elected pontiff,
ignited a long-dormant Polish spirit and united the country in opposition to the
Soviet-imposed government.
Kraków's charms are multidimensional. In addition to the beautifully restored Old
Town, complete with its fairy-tale castle, there's the former Jewish quarter of Kaz-
imierz. If you've seen Steven Spielberg's Oscar-winning movie Schindler's List, you'll
recognize many of the film locations as you walk around Kazimierz. For anyone unfa-
miliar with the film (or the book on which it was based, Thomas Keneally's Schindler's
Ark ), Oskar Schindler was a German industrialist who operated an enamel factory
during World War II. By employing Jews from the nearby ghetto, he managed to spare
the lives of 1,100 people who otherwise would have gone to the death camps at
Auschwitz. Schindler's factory, now closed down, is still standing (there are plans afoot
eventually to open a museum). At the moment it's derelict and perhaps all the more
fascinating for that. You can poke your nose in and wander around; occasionally kids
are on hand to take visitors on an impromptu tour.
Outside of central Kraków, there are several trips that merit a few hours or a full
day of sightseeing. The most important of these is the former Nazi extermination
camp at Auschwitz-Birkenau (in the town of O 1 wi 7 cim, about 81km/50 miles to the
west of the city). Also recommended is a trip to the unusual and unforgettable
Wieliczka salt mines. And if you've got time and a penchant for modern architecture,
check out the Nowa Huta steelworks and the amazing Socialist-Realist housing proj-
ect built around the mills.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE John Paul II International Airport ( & 012/639-30-00; www.lotnisko-
balice.pl) is located in the suburb of Balice, about 10km (6 miles) from town. The air-
port is easily reachable by bus or taxi. Radtur ( & 012/423-5499; www.radtur.pl)
operates a shuttle in summer between the airport and the bus station for 7 z l
($2.30/£1.20) each way. The shuttle runs each way about once an hour between 10am
and 8pm. For a taxi, expect to pay about 50 z l -60 z l ($20/£11) for a ride into town.
BY TRAIN Kraków's main train station, the Dworzec G l ówny (pl. Kolejowy; & 012/
393-11-11; www.pkp.Kraków.pl) is about 20 minutes' walk from the center of the
city. Kraków is well served by rail and departures for Warsaw and other major cities
are frequent. The rail distance from Warsaw is about 5 hours. Note that travel to inter-
national destinations like Prague often require you to change trains in Katowice.
BY BUS Kraków's newly opened central bus station (ul. Bosacka) is located just
behind the main train station and is an easy walk or relatively cheap taxi ride to the
center of town.
BY CAR Kraków lies on the main east-west highway, the A4, running through
southern Poland. It's nearly a straight 3-hour shot on mostly four-lane highway from
the German border, through the cities of Wroc l aw and Katowice. You'll have to pay a
toll of 6 z l from Katowice, but for the speed and convenience (compared to other
roads in Poland) it's a bargain at twice the price. From other directions, including from
Warsaw or points south, you'll have to contend with much smaller roads and longer
drive times. Once in Kraków, stow the car since it's unlikely to help you navigate the
city's small, tram-clogged roads.