Poland - Eastern Europe - page 414

Hotel Pod Zamkiem This is a nicely restored three-story, Jugendstil villa,
just a short walk from the castle. The villa once belonged to the head of the local
stonemasons, and since 1989 has been on the registry of historic places. You'll love the
high-beam ceilings, the dark wood trim and the Secessionist/Art Nouveau detailing
carved into the wood. The rooms can't match the high styling, but are cozy, and some
are filled with antique wardrobes and beds. Once you've checked in, have a drink in
the garden under 100-year-old trees.
Nowowiejskiego 10. & 089/535-12-87. Fax [phone]. www.hotel-olsztyn.com.pl. 15 units. 190 zl ($63/£35)
double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room:TV.
Inexpensive
Hotel Gromada A tired-looking, 1970s-era high-rise, just across from the train
and bus stations, this is nevertheless an acceptable option if you're just passing through
or arriving late and don't want to deal with transportation into the city. The inside is
sterile, but cheerier and better maintained than the outside. The rooms are modern,
small, and clean, with a kind of dormitory-for-grown-ups feel about the place.
Pl. Konstytucji 3. & 089/534-63-30. Fax [phone] units. 168 zl ($56/£30) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Ameni-
ties: Restaurant. In room:TV.
WHERE TO DINE
The Old Town is filled with quick-bite and fast-food options, but if you have time for
a real meal, try one of the places below.

Finds

Oh Give Me a Home, Where the Bison Still Roam . . .

Primeval forests and wild herds of bison in Poland? That's right. Those buf-
falo heads on the sides of bottles of 0ubr beer and fifths of 0ubrówka
vodka are not just marketing ploys. Poland is home to Europe's largest sur-
viving herd of ancient bison. As in North America, bison were once ubiqui-
tous on the landscape of Europe, but through overhunting and habitat
encroachment, their numbers were sharply reduced. Now it's estimated
Europe's herd has no more than a thousand or so animals—and many of
them call Poland home.
You can see the bison at a remarkable national park that also holds some
of Europe's last remaining parcels of primeval forest. The Bialowie9a
National Park (Bialowieski Park Narodowy; www.bpn.com.pl) covers some
1,000 sq. km (390 sq. miles) and since 1980 has been on the UNESCO list of
World Natural Heritage sites. In addition to around 250 head of bison, the
park shelters large populations of deer, boar, elk, beaver, and wolf, as well
as hundreds of species of birds and countless numbers of species of plant
life. Something like 400 different types of lichen alone have been found in
the park.
The park makes for a remarkable side trip. A separate nearby bison
reserve (see location details below), also has on display large populations of
horses, boar, and deer, and is great for kids.