Poland - Eastern Europe - page 411

AFTER DARK
L ód 3 is a shot-and-a-beer town in the best sense of the term, and if you're looking for
a spot to drink, carouse, and club, you needn't go any farther than Piotrkowska: 4 km
of restaurants, cafes, and bars that open early and close late. It might be the only city
in Europe where you won't notice groups of drunken Brits on a stag party. The whole
town, it seems, is on a stag-night blitz.
OLSZTYN & THE MAZURIAN LAKES
200km (120 miles) N of Warsaw
To the northeast of Warsaw, and stretching to the border with Russia (Kaliningrad)
and Lithuania, lies an enormous expanse of lakes and interconnected waterways, the
Mazurian lakes, that form one of the most popular summer vacation destinations for
Poles. The medium-size city of Olsztyn (www.miasto.olsztyn.pl) is a pretty place in its
own right, and makes for a good base for starting exploration of the lakes.
Olsztyn was founded in the 14th century by the Teutonic Knights, but passed into
Polish hands a century later. It fell under Prussian control at the end of the 18th cen-
tury and until World War II, the population was mostly German. Much of the city
was destroyed during the war and its ethnic-German population expelled.
The lake district proper begins in Mr º gowo, about 50km (30 miles) east of Olsz-
tyn. The most popular, and arguably the nicest, lakeside town is Miko l ajki (70km/42
miles from Olsztyn), just above Lake 2 niardwy. Gi 9 ycko and W 7 gorzewo, to the
north, are also comfortable lakeside resorts. One of the most popular activities in the
lakes region is canoeing, and several organizers run multiday (1- and 2-week) paddle
trips throughout the region, with the day spent out on the water and accommodations
at night in simple bunks at canoe-rental outlets along the way. In summer, regular fer-
ries also glide between the resorts.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Olsztyn lies on major Polish rail and bus lines and is easily
accessible from nearly anywhere in the country. Figure on about 2 to 3 hours by bus
or train from Warsaw. It's also a relatively easy, though often crowded drive from the
capital. Figure on 3 hours behind the wheel.
VISITOR INFORMATION Olsztyn's indispensable tourist information office
(Staromiejska 1; & 089/5353-5-65; www.warmia-mazury-rot.pl; daily 9am-5pm) is
the first port of call for all kinds of information on exploring the lakes region. The
office provides city and regional maps, as well as can help advise on where to stay and
find rooms. They can also help arrange canoe and other boat trips, and bike trips
around the lakes. Unfortunately, the staff speaks only halting English; German is more
useful in this part of the country owing to the area's historical ties to Germany. You'll
find the office just to the left of the big gate before you enter the Old Town.
GETTING AROUND Olsztyn's Old Town (Stare Miasto) is small, and once you've
arrived from the bus or train station, walking is the best option. The bus and train sta-
tions are located about 1.6km (1 mile) from town. You can walk into town in about
20 minutes, or grab nearly any public bus, or a taxi (about 10 z l /$3.30/£1.80).
For travel farther on to the lakes in the east, you have the option of taking either
the train or the bus to resorts like Mr º gowo and Miko l ajki. Buses are often but not
always the quickest option. The tourist information office can help with the latest