Poland - Eastern Europe - page 399

the odd chance to catch a football or baseball game on one of the large-screen TVs
scattered around. Cheerful service and beer “by the pitcher” complete the picture. If
you're tired of pierogies on the road, or perhaps a wee bit homesick, this place will set
you straight.
Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79. & 022/630-51-19 . Lunch and dinner items 18 zl-27 zl ($6-$9/£3.30-£5). AE, DC, MC, V.
Daily 11am-midnight.
Nonsolo Pizza ITALIAN This small, austere, Italian-run pizzeria uses tradi-
tional wood-fired ovens and, z l oty-for-z l oty, may be the best pizza in the city. The
atmosphere is informal, and not a particularly great choice for a special night out, but
it's fine for lunch or a quick meal before going out. Has great pasta too (my favorite
is “Ovoletti,” with fresh tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella). It's especially convenient if
you happen to be staying at the Sobieski, Premiere Classe, or Kyriad Prestige hotels
(see “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter); it's an easy 5-minute walk from all of
these along Al. Jerozolimskie in the direction heading away from the center.
Grojecka 20c. & 022/824-12-73 . Lunch and dinner items 15 zl-21 zl ($5-$7/£2.60-£3.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
10am-9pm.
Pierrogeria POLISH Newly opened and fast becoming the spot for pierogies
and simple Polish food (great barszcz, too!) in the Old Town. Order your pierogies tra-
ditionally boiled or fried, and choose from a variety of sauces, including relative rari-
ties like dill or garlic. The Old Town location makes it a great stop for an easy lunch
while taking in the sights.
Ul. Krzywe Kolo 30. & 022/654-88-44 . Lunch and dinner items 12 zl-18 zl ($4-$6/£2.20-£3.30). MC, V. Daily
noon-10pm.
Warsaw Tortilla Factory MEXICAN I know it's dangerous to recommend a
burrito joint in a pierogi town, but this place delivers the goods. All of the usual Tex-
Mex staples, including excellent burritos, fajitas, and hot chicken wings. The atmos-
phere is casual, and the clientele is mostly young professionals and expats out for a fun
night. Strong cocktails!
Wilcza 46. & 022/621-86-22. Lunch and dinner items 15 zl-30 zl ($5-$10/£2.60-£6). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
noon-10pm.
EXPLORING WARSAW
Warsaw is a large city, so plan your exploration in pieces at a time, moving between
areas with trams or taxis. A good place to start a walking tour of the city is the Old
Town (Stare Miasto). The beautiful baroque and Renaissance-style burghers' houses
would be remarkable in their own right for their beauty and period detailing, but what
makes these houses truly astounding is that they're only a few decades old. As one of
the main centers of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (see below), the Old Town bore the
brunt of German reprisal attacks and the entire area, save for one building, was blown
to bits at the end of 1944. After the war, to reclaim their heritage, the Polish people
launched an enormous project to rebuild the Old Town, exactly as it was, brick-by-
brick. Many of the original architectural sketches were destroyed in the war, so the
town was rebuilt from paintings, photographs, drawings, and people's memories. The
reconstruction was so authentic that UNESCO in 1980 listed the Old Town as a
World Heritage Site. Today, the Old Town is given over mostly to touts and tourists,
but still rewards a couple of hours of strolling. Behind the old-world facades, the