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sociability of a hostel. Nathan is a likable American expat who wants to provide high
standards at a fair price. Most of the clientele falls into the standard backpacker cate-
gory, but the doors are open to all comers, young, old, and in-between. Several pri-
vate double rooms are on offer, so you don't have to sleep en groupe . Free laundry is
one of several perks that you wouldn't normally expect at a hostel, and the central city
location is ideal.
Pi7kna 24/26. & 022/622-29-46. Fax 022/622-29-46. www.nathansvilla.com. 14 units. 170 zl ($56/£30) double. AE,
DC, MC, V. Amenities: Laundry; nonsmoking rooms.
Premiere Classe The theory behind this French hotel chain is to offer
spotless, modern rooms with absolutely no frills at cut-rate prices. It's found a real
niche in Warsaw, where decent, affordable rooms in the center are in short supply. The
rooms themselves are microscopic—and I've seen Winnebagoes with bigger bath-
rooms—but they're very clean, cozy, and comfortable. Watch the add-on prices. Room
rates do not include breakfast (18 z l /$6/£3.15), parking (30 z l /$10/£5.25 a day), or
in-room Wi-Fi (10 z l /$3.30/£1.75 for 2 hours).
Towarowa 2. & 022/624-08-00. Fax 022/620-26-29. www.premiereclasse.com.pl. 126 units. 179 zl ($60/£32) dou-
ble. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; nonsmoking rooms. In room:A/C, TV.
WHERE TO DINE
The dining scene is exploding. Warsaw is great for Polish food, and as a bustling city
of two million, also good for just about any international cuisine you can think of.
The best places tend to be in the central city, 2 ródmie 1 cie, especially south of Al. Jero-
zolimskie. Dress is casual to neat-casual except in the more expensive places (where
snappier dress is more appropriate, though rarely required).
VERY EXPENSIVE
Ale Gloria POLISH Fusion food is catching on in Poland, but here it's defined
a little differently. Instead of the usual “Asia meets the West” concept common in
other places, in Poland it often means “traditional Polish food plus something whacky
tossed in.” For starters try wild game pâté served with bitter orange sauce or stuffed
carp in a raisin wine gelatin (get the idea?). The mains are more down-to-earth, but
still exhibit an occasional flight of fancy. One of the best is boar roulade served in a
Bombay gin and honey sauce. The service is top-notch and the crowd is a mix of beau-
tiful people and embassy types who can afford to dabble.
Plac Trzech Krzy9y 3. & 022/584-70-80. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner items 45 zl-66 zl
($15-$22/£8-£12). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-11pm.
U Fukiera POLISH One of the fanciest meals in the city, served in an over-
wrought but undeniably intimate and romantic space on the Old Town's main square.
Antique crystal, fresh flowers, and original art on the walls lend a special feel. The
quality of the food is disputed. Some say it's the best in town, others that it's slightly
overrated (but still quite good). Not surprisingly for a traditional restaurant, the menu
is heavy on game. For a different kind of starter try the white borscht with porcini
mushrooms. The roast leg of venison in cream sauce won't disappoint. Dress up for
this one.
Rynek Starego Miasta 27. & 022/831-10-13. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner items 30 zl-60 zl
($10-$20/£5.50-£11). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-10pm.
Value
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