Poland - Eastern Europe - page 386

cover long distances. The best trains are the intercity (IC) trains, which link nearly all
of the country's biggest cities. You'll see IC trains marked in red on timetables; these
are more expensive than regular trains and require an obligatory seat reservation. Next
best are express trains (Ex), which also require a reservation. Avoid other types of trains
for longer distances. Fares are relatively low by Western standards, with journeys
between major cities rarely over $30. For overnight trips, you can book a couchette in
a six-bunk car for around 90 z l ($30/£16) or a sleeper in a three-bunk car for 120 z l
($40/£22). Be sure to book these in advance if possible.
BY BUS Buses are the preferred means of travel to smaller towns and villages, or for
traveling within regions. The country's national carrier, PKS, maintains an extensive
network of routes linking nearly all cities and towns of any size at all. On popular
runs, such as between Kraków and Zakopane, private bus lines have emerged to sup-
plement the public network. These private lines may cost a little more but are worth
it since they are not obligated to stop at every small town and village along the way.
Bus stations are almost always located near the main train stations. You can usually
buy tickets in advance or from the driver, but watch to have exact change, since the
driver may not have enough cash on hand to deal with large bills.
TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS
The past decade has seen a boom in hotel construction, but most of that has come in
the high and high-middle ends of the market in order to cater to the growing amount
of business travel to Poland. That means rates will probably be higher than you expect.
On the good side, this dependence on the business traveler means that hotels often
cut rates on the weekends to fill beds. “Standard double rooms” are usually under-
stood to mean twin beds; rooms with queen-size beds are often classified as “deluxe”
and cost more. Most places now have nonsmoking accommodations, and a growing
number of hotels are now mostly or entirely smoke-free. If you're traveling by car, note
that parking is often not included in the price. Hotels will frequently offer guarded
parking for a fee, usually 30 z l ($10/£5.50). In urban areas this is definitely the way
to go.
In addition to hotels and pensions (“pensjonaty”), there's no shortage of people
offering private accommodations in their homes or flats. This is more common in
heavily touristed areas away from larger cities—in places like Zakopane, for example.
Look for the signs saying “wolny pokoj” (free room) or “noclegi” (lodging) hanging
from outside houses. Prices are much lower than hotels, but standards vary consider-
ably. Always take a look at the room first before accepting.
TIPS ON DINING
Restaurant meals have greatly improved in the past decade. It used to be nearly impos-
sible to find decent food outside of a private home, but entrepreneurs have seized on
the growing numbers of businessmen and tourists. In addition to standard restaurants
(“restauracja”), look for places with the word “karczma” (literally “inn”) in the name.
These are often done up in traditional, peasant style, with simpler cooking and a
warmer atmosphere. Here and there you'll still see the occasional “bar mleczny,” or
milk bar; these self-service canteens traditionally cater to students and are great for
simple Polish meals like pierogies, potato pancakes, soups, and some meat dishes.
Milk bars often have shorter opening hours, are nonsmoking, and don't serve alcohol.