Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 365

György tér. You can wander around the grounds free of charge daily from 8am to 8pm
in summer and daily 8am to 6pm in winter, or you can explore the two museums on
the premises. The István Dobó Castle Museum ( & 36/312-744 ) relates the history
of the castle and displays some Turkish artifacts. The Eger Picture Gallery is partic-
ularly worth a visit for those who have not yet seen the Hungarian National Gallery
in Buda; the same fine 19th-century Hungarian artists are featured in both museums.
The museums are open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 5pm, until 4pm in
winter. Admission to each museum is 800 Ft ($4/£2); separate admission for each
museum.
Just to the west of the castle, on Harangönt ó utca, is Eger's most visible reminder
of the Turkish period, its Minaret ( & 36/410-233 ). Though the mosque that held
the minaret was destroyed in 1841, the 14-sided, 33m-tall (110-ft.) minaret survives
to this day in remarkably good condition. For 100 Ft (50¢/25p), you can ascend its
narrow height. It's a terrifying journey up a steep, cramped spiral staircase; because the
space is so narrow, you can't turn back if anyone is behind you. Consequently,
the ascent is not recommended for the weak-kneed or weak-hearted. Those who do
make the climb, however, are justly rewarded with a spectacular view. Officially, the
Minaret is open daily from 10am to 6pm, to 4pm in winter, but the ticket taker in
the little booth at the Minaret's base is not always faithful to these hours; depending
on the weather conditions, the hours may be longer or shorter. If no one is there, you
should ask at the nearby Minaret Hotel.
Moving from the graceful to the overpowering, you'll find the massive Basilica—
the second-largest church in Hungary (after Esztergom's Basilica)—a few blocks to the
south on Eszterházy tér. József Hild, who was one of the architects of St. Stephen's
Basilica in Pest, built this church in the 1830s in the grandiose neoclassical style of the
time. It's open daily from 6am to 7pm. Thirty-minute organ concerts are held in the
church in summer, beginning at 11:30am Monday through Saturday and at 12:45pm
on Sunday. These times are subject to change; check at Tourinform. Admission is free.
Opposite the cathedral is the Lyceum ( & 36/520-400 ), perhaps Eger's finest
example of 18th-century architecture. The library (kö nyvtár) on the first floor is
the highlight of a visit to the Lyceum; the ceiling fresco of the Council of Trent by
Johann Lukas Kracker and József Zach ranks among the greatest pieces of Hungarian
art. The baroque carved bookshelves are magnificent. The library has a letter written
by Mozart, the only one of its kind in the country. The Lyceum is open to the public
in summer Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30am to 3pm; in winter Saturday and
Sunday from 9:30am to 1pm. Admission is 350 Ft ($1.75/90p). In July and August,
concerts are frequently performed in the yard of the Lyceum. Ask at Tourinform for
the schedule and ticket information.
If you missed visiting a spa or bathhouse in Budapest, try Eger's own Turkish bath
at Fürd ó u. 1-3 ( & 36/413-356 ). The bath is mixed sex, open only on Saturday from
2 to 6pm and Sunday from 8am to 6pm. The rate is 700 Ft ($3.50/£1.80) for an hour.
Spa services are posted in English. Northeastern Hungary is rich in thermal waters; ask
at Tourinform for a list of spas in the region.
WHERE TO STAY
Eger is blessed with several fine little hotels right in the center of town. Two stand out
in particular: The Hotel Korona , Tündérpart 5, 3300 Eger ( & 36/310-287; fax
36/310-261), is a clean, cozy establishment on an extremely quiet residential street just
a few blocks west of Dobó István tér. The hotel has a shaded patio, where breakfast is