Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 361

by the high castle, called Szigliget home. You can hike up to the ruins for a splendid view
of the lake and the surrounding countryside; look for the path behind the white 18th-
century church, which stands on the highest spot in the village.
A good place to fortify yourself for the hike is the Vár Vendégl ó , Kisfaludy u. 30
( & 87/461-040 ), on the road up to the castle. It's a casual restaurant with plenty of
outdoor seating, serving traditional Hungarian fare. Main courses run from 1,000 Ft
to 1,800 Ft ($5-$9/£2.60-£4.65). It's open daily 11am to 11pm in the high season.
The lively beach at Szigliget provides a striking contrast to the quiet village and is
a good place to take kids. In summer, buses from neighboring towns drop off hordes
of beachgoers. The beach area is crowded with fried-food and beer stands, ice-cream
vendors, a swing set, and a volleyball net.
Szigliget is also home to the Eszterházy Wine Cellar, Kossuth u. 3 ( & 87/461-
044 ), the largest wine cellar in the region. After a hike in the hills or a day in the sun,
a little wine tasting just might be in order.
If you really enjoy hiking, you might want to take a local bus from Szigliget to the
nondescript nearby village of Hegymagas, about 5km (3 miles) to the north along the
Szigliget-Tapolca bus route. The town's name means “Tall Hill,” and from here you
can hike up Szent György-hegy (St. George Hill). This marvelous vineyard-covered
hill has several hiking trails, the most strenuous of which goes up and over the rocky
summit.
LAKE BALATON'S SOUTHERN SHORE
If you're looking for long days at the beach followed by long nights out on the town,
the southern shore of Lake Balaton may be the place for you. After all, a million Hun-
garian students can't be wrong. Or could they?
Siófok, the largest resort town on Lake Balaton, is at the lake's southeastern end.
Its growth dates back to the 1860s, when Budapest was first connected to the south-
ern shore of the lake by rail. Thus, we suppose, nobody alive can remember a time
(other than the war years) when Siófok was not overrun by summertime revelers.
Many of the majestic old villas along the large plane tree-lined streets have been
restored or renovated, and can even be rented in the summer months.
The bustling Siófok caters largely to a young, active crowd of students and
teenagers who fill every inch of the town's beaches all day long and then pack their
sunburned bodies into the town's discos until the early morning hours. Large, mod-
ern, expensive hotels line the shore in Siófok. You'll find no empty stretches of beach
here, but you will find windsurfing, tennis, and boating.
While this city is no cultural capital, the architecture of some of the older buildings
is impressive. Note the old railway station, and the many villas around the Gold Coast
(Aranypart). You will also find some important contemporary buildings, notably the
Evangelical Church, designed by one of Hungary's most appreciated architects, Imre
Makovecz —who is known for his use of wood and light in his structures that dot the
country. Most of the wood used for the building was imported from Finland.
Siófok is also trying to attract visitors to recently constructed wellness centers, open
year-round, which offer an assortment of facilities plus the added benefit of Hungary's
warm-water springs.
For more information on the southern shore, contact the Tourinform ( & /fax
84/310-117; www.siofokportal.com) office in Siófok, right below the immense water
tower in the center of town.