Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 352

SZENTENDRE
21km (13 miles) N of Budapest
The center of Szentendre (pronounced Sen -ten-dreh) must rank with Pest's Váci utca
and Buda's Castle District as one of the most heavily visited spots in all of Hungary.
In the summer, it becomes one huge handicraft and souvenir marketplace. Despite the
excess of vendors, Szentendre remains a gorgeous little town. In medieval times, Ser-
bian settlers fleeing Turkish northward expansion populated Szentendre, which counts
half a dozen Serbian churches among its rich collection of historic buildings. The
town retains a distinctively Mediterranean flavor that's rare this far north in Europe.
Since the early 1900s, Szentendre has been home to an artists' colony. Today, about
100 artists live and work here. As a result, the town has a wealth of museums and gal-
leries, the best of which are listed below. Surprisingly few people visit the museums,
however, distracted perhaps by the shopping opportunities. We recommend that you
explore more than the main drag, F ó tér. After the almost-suffocating hubbub of the
center of the city, we're pretty sure you'll appreciate the peace and quiet of the many
exhibition halls and the winding cobblestone streets that lead to a Roman Catholic
churchyard at the top of the hill, with lovely views of the red-tile rooftops. Wander
down side streets; Szentendre is too small for you to get lost in and too beautiful for
a less-than-thorough exploration.
ESSENTIALS
For information on getting to Szentendre. One of Szentendre's information offices,
Tourinform, is at Dumtsa Jen ó u. 22 ( & 26/317-965 ), with maps of Szentendre (and
the Danube Bend region), as well as concert and exhibition schedules. The office can
also provide accommodations information. The office is open April through October
Monday to Friday from 9am to 7pm, and weekends from 9am to 2pm; the office is
closed on weekends in the off season but is open weekdays from 9am to 5pm. If you
arrive in Szentendre by train or bus, you'll come upon this office as you follow the flow
of pedestrian traffic into town on Kossuth Lajos utca. If you arrive by boat, you may
find the Ibusz office sooner, located on the corner of Bogdányi út and G ó zhajó utca
( & 26/310-181 ). This office is open April to October Monday through Friday from
9am to 5pm and weekends 10am to 2pm. From November to March, it's open week-
days only, 9am to 4pm.
Another good source of information, particularly if you are planning to stay in the
region more than a day, is Jági Utazás, at Kucsera F. u. 15 ( & /fax [phone] ). The
staff here is extremely knowledgeable and dedicated. From planning hunting or horse-
back-riding excursions to helping you find the right pension room to recommending
the best palacsinta (crepe) place in town, they seem to know it all. The office is open
weekdays 10am to 6pm in summer and 9am to 5pm in winter.
WHERE TO STAY
Róz Panzió, Pannónia utca 6/b ( & 26/311-737; fax [phone]; www.hotelroz
szentendre.hu) has 10 units and a nice garden overlooking the Danube for breakfast
when weather permits. Rooms are 40

€ €

($46) for a double during off season, 50

($63) in high season, breakfast included. Parking is available.
EXPLORING THE MUSEUMS & CHURCHES
Ámos and Anna Múzeum This exceptional museum was the former home
of artist couple Imre Ámos and Margit Anna, whose work represents the beginning of
expressionist painting in Hungary. Opened after Anna's death in 1991, the collection

Finds