Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 336

the knowledge that a jury has examined all items for authenticity. Look for the dis-
tinctive label (or sticker) that will let you know that you are looking at a Folkart prod-
uct: a circle with a bird in the center, surrounded by the words FOLKART / NÉPMÚVÉSZETI
HUNGARY . The private folk-art shops lining Váci utca and the streets of the Castle Dis-
trict tend to be much more expensive than Folkart, and their products, unlike
Folkart's, often tend toward the kitschy (though with some notable exceptions).
Folkart's main store, Folkart Centrum, has been relocated to the upper end of the
mall at V. Váci u. 58 ( & 1/318-4697 ) and is open daily 10am to 7pm.
One outstanding private shop on Váci utca is Vali Folklór, in the courtyard of Váci
u. 23 ( & 1/337-6301 ). A soft-spoken man named Bálint Ács runs this cluttered shop.
Ács travels through the villages of Hungary and neighboring countries buying up
authentic folk items. He's extremely knowledgeable about the products he sells, and he
enjoys speaking with customers (in German or English). When he is not around, his
elderly mother keeps shop (she doesn't speak English). The most appealing items here
are the traditional women's clothing and the jewelry boxes. From time to time, the store
features marvelous, genuine Russian icons. The store has recently expanded its collec-
tion to include a great variety of now-hard-to-find Soviet and Eastern European Com-
munist-era pins, medals, and badges, with fair prices. Bálint Ács' mother can tailor
clothing for your size in 3 to 4 days. Open Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm, Sat-
urday and Sunday 10am to 7pm (sometimes closed on weekends; call ahead).
Holló Folkart Gallery, at V. Vitkovics Mihály u. 12 ( & 1/317-8103 ), is an
unusual gallery selling handcrafted reproductions of original folk-art pieces from var-
ious regions of the country. Beautiful carved and painted furniture is for sale, as are
small mirrors, decorative boxes, traditional decorative pottery, and wooden candle-
sticks. Open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 2pm.
Markets
Warning: Markets in Budapest are very crowded, bustling places. Beware of pickpock-
ets; carry your valuables under your clothing in a money belt rather than in a wallet.
Ecseri Flea Market According to a local rumor you can find anything at this busy
flea market—from eviscerated bombshells to dinosaur eggs. True? Well, you seem to
believe it once inside. You are greeted by rows of wooden tables chock-full of old
dishes, toys, linens, and bric-a-brac as you enter this market at Nagykörösi út 156.
From the tiny cubicles in the narrow corridors, serious dealers market their wares:
Herend and Zsolnay porcelain, Bulgarian and Russian icons, silverware, paintings,
furniture, clocks, rugs, prewar dolls and stuffed animals, antique clothing, and jew-
elry. Due to all the tourist attention—mostly during the weekend—the prices of the
market have increased severely although some bargains can still be made. Antiques
buyers: Be aware that you'll need permission from the Museum of Applied Arts to take
your purchases out of the country (p. 330). Haggling is standard and necessary. Pur-
chases are in cash only. The market runs Monday through Friday 8am to 2pm, Satur-
day 6am to 2pm, Sunday 8am to 1pm. XIX. Nagykörösi út. & 1/280-8840. Take bus 54 from
Boráros tér.
FRUIT & VEGETABLE MARKETS ( CSARNOK OR PIAC ) There are five vin-
tage market halls (vásárcsarnok) in Budapest. These vast cavernous spaces, architectural
wonders of steel and glass, were built in the 1890s in the ambitious grandiose style of
the time. Three are still in use as markets and provide a measure of local color you
certainly won't find in the grocery store. Hungarian produce in season is sensational,