great variety of books on all topics central European (visit www.ceupress.com). Open
Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm. V. Nádor utca 9. & 1/327-3097. Metro: Kossuth tér (Red
line) or Arany János utca (Blue line).
Írók Boltja The “Writers' Bookshop”—a true literary center with a rich his-
tory, first-rate literary events, and inspired window displays—is a mecca for writers,
readers, and curious bystanders. In the first half of the last century the store was the
popular Japanese Coffee House, a popular literary coffee shop, then became the Spark
Bookstore around 1955, during the Communist era. The shop's name was changed
around 1958, and was state-run until 1991, when 14 employees became the co-
owners during the privatization of state-owned business. It is now practically an
institution, and Hungarian authors such as Péter Nádas, Péter Eszterházy, and Nobel
prize-winner Imre Kertész have read here. Almost all events are held in Hungarian,
but the store has a nice selection of English-language books, plus a cozy in-store cof-
fee corner. Open Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 1pm. VI.
Andrássy út 45. & 1/322-1645. www.irokboltja.hu. Metro: Oktogon (Yellow line).
Litea: Literature & Tea Bookshop Situated in the Fortuna courtyard, opposite
the Hilton Hotel, this bookshop/teahouse stocks a wide range of books on Hungary;
CDs and cassettes of the works of Hungarian composers; and cards, maps, and other
quality souvenirs for serious enthusiasts of Hungarian culture. Take your time brows-
ing, order a cup of tea, sit, and have a closer look at the books that interest you. This
calm, no-obligation-to-buy atmosphere is a rare find. Open daily 10am to 6pm. I. Hess
András tér 4. & 1/375-6987. www.litea.hu. Bus: Várbusz from Moszkva tér, bus 16 from Deák tér, or
funicular from Clark Ádám tér, to Castle Hill.
Fashion & Shoes
We list just a few options, assuming that you'll discover the rest on your own. For dis-
count clothes, see “Markets,” p. 336.
Ciánkáli Called the Anti-Fashion Shop, this “high-quality” secondhand shop chain
sells vintage junk and alternative-punk modish collections and accessories. They also
display a large selection of funky brand-new items. Look for the wide selection of
leather clothing. Open Monday through Friday 10am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to
2pm. VII. Dohány u. 68. & 1/341-0540. Metro: Blaha Lujza tér (Red line).
Emilia Anda Mixing organic materials like silk with plastic or paper, the noted
young designer Emilia Anda's clothes make heads turn. Her studies in architecture
paved the way for creating her inimitable lustrous get-ups, one that stands out in the
Hungarian fashion world. Open Monday through Friday noon to 6pm, Saturday
11am to 2pm. V. Váci u. 16/b. No phone. Metro: Vörösmarty tér (Yellow line).
Iguana Looking for some sparkling oversize grandma-glasses or perhaps crazy '60s
or '70s cult accessories? A shrine for retro-rats, the shop stocks rows of peace jackets,
trousers, bags, and jewelry. Listen to or purchase some of their all-star euphoric sec-
ondhand CDs. Open Monday through Friday 11am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to 2pm.
VIII. Krúdy Gyula u. 9. No phone. www.iguanaretro.hu. Metro: Kálvin tér (Blue line). There is a 2nd store
at XI. Tompa u. 1. No phone. Tram: 4 or 6.
Katti Zoób Celebrated Hungarian fashion designer Zoób's high-end couture ranges
from slick, eccentric, yet harmonious businesswomen's outfits to smart and naughty
on-the-go-wear and accessories. The shop, located in the capacious MOM Park, is
open Monday through Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm. XII. Alkotás u. 53.
& 1/487-5609. www.kattizoob.com. Tram: 59 or 61.