Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 322

composed of older men, and according to local lore, the place becomes something of a
pickup spot after 9am. The first baths were built on this site in the 14th century,
although the Rudas Bathhouse itself dates to the late 16th century. It boasts an octag-
onal pool and domed roof; some of the small window holes in the cupola have stained
glass, while others are open to the sky, allowing diffused light to stream in. You'll find
most of the same services and facilities here that you would at Király: a thermal bath,
a sauna, and a steam bath.
I. Döbrentei tér 9. & 1/356-1322. Admission to thermal baths 1,000 Ft ($5/£2.60) for 1 1 ⁄ 2 hr. only, swimming pool
800 Ft ($4/£2). Weekdays 6am-8pm; weekends 6am-1pm. Bus: 7; get off at the Buda side of the Erzsébet Bridge,
turn left, and walk down to the riverside.
Széchenyi Baths Part of an immense health spa located in the City Park, the
Széchenyi Baths are perhaps second only to the Gellért Baths in terms of facilities and
popular appeal. Ivy climbs the walls of the sprawling pool complex here. On a nice
day, crowds of bathers, including many families and tourists, visit the palatial unisex
outdoor swimming pool. Turkish-style thermal baths are segregated and are located off
to the sides of the pool. Look for the older gentlemen concentrating intently on their
chess games, half-immersed in the steaming pool. Prices are all posted in English, and
the refund system is described.
XIV. Állatkerti út 11-14, in City Park. & 1/363-3210. www.szechenzifurdo.hu. Admission to the thermal baths is
2,000 Ft ($10/£5.15), dressing cabins are extra. Daily 6am-7pm, except Sat-Sun in winter, when the complex closes
at 5pm. Metro: Széchenyi fürdó (Yellow line).
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES & SPORTS
GOLF For information, contact the Hungarian Golf Club, V. Bécsi út 5 ( & 1/
317-6025; www.golfhungary.hu). The nearest course is located on Szentendre Island,
25 minutes north of Budapest by car. Call the course directly at & 26/392-465. For
putting practice, the 19th Hole Golf Driving Range is located at II. Adyliget, Fekete-
fej u. 6 ( & 1/354-1510 ).
HORSEBACK RIDING Riding remains a popular activity in Hungary, land of the
widely feared Magyar horsemen of a bygone era. A good place to mount up is the Pet-
neházy Lovasiskola (Riding School), at II. Feketefej u. 2 ( & 1/397-5048; www.
petnehazy-lovascentrum.hu). As far out in the Buda Hills as you can go without leav-
ing the city limits, the school is located in open country, with trails in the hills. Rid-
ing on the track with a trainer costs 2,500 Ft ($13/£6.40) for 30 minutes; open riding
with a guide is 4,500 Ft ($23/£12). There are also pony rides for children at 1,500 Ft
($7.50/£3.85) for 15 minutes, and there are 30-minute horse-cart rides at 10,000 Ft
($50/£26) for a group of up to 10 people. The Petneházy Country Club is down the
road. At the stable is a great little csárda (inn/restaurant), recently renovated; you
might want to have lunch here. The stable is open year-round Friday, Saturday, and
Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Take bus no. 56 (56E is fastest) from Moszkva tér to the
last stop, then bus no. 63 to Feketefej utca, followed by a 10-minute walk.
The Hungarian Equestrian Tourism Association, located at V. Ferenciek tere 4
( & 1/317-1644; fax [phone]; www.equi.hu), might also serve your riding interests.
IN-LINE SKATING & ICE-SKATING There are several options for both in
Budapest. The oldest and most popular ice rink is in Városliget, on the lake next to
Vajdahunyad castle. However, since it is an open-air facility, it is open only from mid-
October until the end of February. Hours are Monday through Friday 9am to 1pm