Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 321

early 20th centuries—Budapest's “golden age”—several fabulous bathhouses were
built: the extravagant and eclectic Széchenyi Baths in City Park, the splendid Art Nou-
veau Gellért Baths, and the solid neoclassical Lukács Baths. All of these bathhouses are
still in use and are worth a look even for nonbathers. Most baths in Budapest have
recently instituted a complicated new pricing system (dubbed the “refund system”)
that charges according to the time that you have spent in the baths. Previously, a sin-
gle admission ticket bought you an unlimited visit. Now, you are generally required
to pay for the longest possible duration (4 hr. or more) when you enter the bathhouse
and you are refunded on the basis of the actual time that you spent on the premises
when you exit. You are given a chip card upon entry; keep careful track of the card
because if you lose it you are assumed to have stayed for the maximum time and you
will not receive a refund.
THE BEST BATHHOUSES
Gellért Baths Budapest's most spectacular bathhouse, the Gellért Baths are
located in Buda's Hotel Gellért, the oldest Hungarian spa hotel and an Art Nouveau
jewel. Enter the baths through the side entrance. The exterior of the building is in
need of restoration, but once inside the lobby, you'll be delighted by the details. The
unisex indoor pool is without question one of Europe's finest, with marble columns,
majolica tiles, and stone lion heads spouting water. The two single-sex Turkish-style
thermal baths, off to either side of the pool through badly marked doors, are also glo-
rious, though in need of restoration. In the summer months, the outdoor roof pool
attracts a lot of attention for 10 minutes every hour on the hour, when the artificial
wave machine is turned on. There are separate nude sunbathing decks for men and
women, but you'll have to figure out where they are. In general, you need patience to
navigate this place.
XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. & 1/466-6166. Admission to the thermal bath costs 3,000 Ft ($15/£7.70) for 4 hr. or more; a
15-min. massage is 2,300 Ft ($12/£5.90). Lockers or cabins are included. Admission to all pools and baths, without a
cabin and only communal dressing rooms, is 2,500 Ft ($13/£6.40) adults and children, for 4 hr. or more. Prices and
the lengthy list of services, including the complicated refund system, are posted in English. The thermal baths are
open in summer daily 6am-7pm; in winter Mon-Fri 6am-7pm, Sat-Sun 6am-5pm, with the last entrance an hour
before closing. Take tram 47 or 49 from Deák tér to Szent Gellért tér.
Király Baths The Király Baths are one of Budapest's most important architec-
tural monuments to Turkish rule. This is a place where Hungarian culture meets the
Eastern culture that influenced it. The bath itself, built in the late 16th century, is
housed under an octagonal domed roof. Sunlight filters through small round windows
in the ceiling. The water glows. The effect is perfectly tranquil. In addition to the ther-
mal baths, there are sauna and steam room facilities. Bring a towel if you like, since
you will not receive one until the end of your treatment. Upon exiting the baths, help
yourself to a cotton sheet from the pile near the base of the stairs. Wrap yourself up
and lounge with a cup of tea in the relaxation room, where you can also receive a pedi-
cure or massage.
Women can use the baths on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 7am to 5pm.
Men are welcome on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 9am to 7pm.
I. Fó u. 84. & 1/201-4392. Admission to baths 1,100 Ft ($5.50/£2.80) for 1 1 ⁄ 2 hr. only. Metro: Batthyány tér (Red line).
Rudas Baths Near the Erzsébet Bridge, on the Buda side of the city, is another
of Budapest's classic Turkish baths. These baths are for men only, though both sexes are
admitted to the swimming pool. During early mornings the crowd is predominantly