Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 310

TRADITIONAL COFFEEHOUSES
Like Vienna, imperial Budapest was famous for its coffeehouse culture. Literary move-
ments and political circles alike were identified in large part by which coffeehouse they
met in. Sándor Pet ó fi, the revolutionary poet of 1848 fame, is said to have instructed
his friend János Arany, another leading Hungarian poet of the day, to write to him in
care of the Pilvax Coffee House, as he spent more time there than at home. Although
Communism managed to dull this cherished institution, a handful of classic coffee-
houses miraculously survived the tangled tragedies of the 20th century, and, with just
a few exceptions, all have been carefully restored to their original splendor.
All the classic coffeehouses offer delicious pastries and coffee in an atmosphere of
luxurious—if occasionally faded—splendor. Many offer small sandwiches, some serve
ice cream, and some feature bar drinks. Pastries are displayed in a glass. Table sharing
is common, and lingering for hours over a single cup of coffee or a pastry is perfectly
acceptable, and is in fact encouraged by the free daily papers provided by the house.
THE INNER CITY & CENTRAL PEST
Centrál Kávéház This is the closest to the Viennese coffeehouse culture in
Budapest, and is a perfect replica of the original establishment that stood on the prem-
ises from 1887. Although there is a superb restaurant here as well, this place is best
known as a coffeehouse. The house was restored by one of Hungary's own homegrown
successful businessman, Imre Somody—one of the country's very few new millionaires
who seem willing to recycle profits by investing in the country's general wealth. This
place is perfectly located in the Inner City, and is always busy with an interesting mix
of the local university crowd from ELTE and CEU, celebrity intellectuals, and the ever-
present travelers, who have taken to the place immediately. Watch at the right end of
the smoky section as you enter where a table is perpetually reserved for local writer
Géza Csemer, who is more than a regular here. The coffeehouse's calm green interior
also allows you to check out the free copies of various newspapers over a coffee and a
fresh croissant. You can visit as early as 8am; this is the only place open at that time of
the day in the area. A simple espresso at Centrál costs 310 Ft ($1.60/80p).
V. Károlyi Mihály u. 9. & 1/266-2110. www.centralkavehaz.hu. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am-midnight. Metro: Fer-
enciek tere (Blue line).
Gerbeaud's Gerbeaud's is probably Budapest's most famous coffeehouse.
Founded in 1858, it has stood on its current spot since 1870. Whether you sit inside
amid the splendor of the late-19th-century furnishings, or outside on one of Pest's liveli-
est pedestrian-only squares, you will surely enjoy the fine pastries that made the name
Gerbeaud famous; we especially recommend their moist plum pies (szilvás lepény). Ger-
beaud's reputation and location ensure that it's filled to capacity throughout the year,
although many locals complain that the value-for-money ratio has become disappoint-
ing. Given its history, however, you cannot afford not to have at least one coffee here
during your stay. In good weather, try getting a table outside on bustling Vörösmarty tér
where you can watch kids (yours perhaps?) play around (and on) the square's fountain.
V. Vörösmarty tér 7. & 1/429-9000. www.gerbeaud.hu. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 9am-9pm. Metro: Vörösmarty tér
(Yellow line).
CENTRAL BUDA
Auguszt Cukrászda We highly recommend this true and tested coffeehouse,
established in 1870 and remarkably still run by the family of the founder. The latest
of four generations of confectioners, József Auguszt, who now runs the coffee shop,

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