Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 309

THE BUDA HILLS
Expensive
Remiz HUNGARIAN CONTEMPORARY Remiz was born at a time
when many entrepreneurs were opening little food shops, while others, like Remiz
owner Alice Mez ó di, wanted to bring dining out of the Socialist era. The “Remiz” is
literally the place where trams spend the night, and the venue for this restaurant that
was opened in 1992. Mez ó di and her husband, József, the lead singer of the classic
Hungarian rock band Apostol, are also magnets for creative dinner guests, including
Hungarian actor András Kern, actress Enik ó Eszenyi, choreographer Iván Markó, and
the elder-statesman Hungarian film director Miklós Jancsó. A pianist and trumpet
player effortlessly play melodies in the tram-shaped restaurant, which is decorated
with early-20th-century posters. Try an assortment of gooseliver specialties, classic
chicken paprikas, or a tender veal filet with bolete mushrooms that will leave you sat-
isfied, and just curious enough to ask Alice to tell you some stories.
II. Budakeszi út 5. & 1/275-1396. www.remiz.hu. Reservations recommended. Soup 780 Ft-1,240 Ft
($3.90-$6.20/£2-£3.20); starters 980 Ft-2,620 Ft ($4.90-$13/£2.50-£6.75); main courses 1,980 Ft-3,520 Ft
($9.90-$18/£5.10-£9). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am-midnight. Bus: 158 from Moszkva tér (departs from Csaba utca, at
the top of the stairs, near the stop from which the Várbusz departs for the Castle District).
Moderate
Ezüstponty HUNGARIAN TRADITIONAL A true and tested tradi-
tional Hungarian fish and game restaurant that enjoys a history of some 150 years on
the very same spot. The author's favorite Hungarian restaurant, this unassuming and
magical place allows you to enjoy a wide variety of home-style dishes served in an old-
world atmosphere. The building itself feels like a rustic woodsy country house that is
awakened nightly with live traditional Hungarian music played on the violin and gui-
tar. It is decorated with paintings of sailboats, old photographs, and Budapest street
scenes. Austere waiters serve a menu that is long and varied, but the true specialty
remains the heavy but sumptuous carp soup Szeged-style with haslets, served in a
small stew pot. Best consumed with fresh hot peppers, toast, and butter, the soup is
rich, textured, and always fresh. The no-nonsense manager recommended a Wels
goulash (basically, very rich fish paprikas) served with galuska, sour cream, and bacon
bits. No visitor should come to Budapest without visiting this place at least once,
because then—and only then—can you truly return knowing that you have tasted
authentic, traditional, and hardy Hungarian cuisine.
XII. Némethvölgy út 96. & 1/319-1632. Reservations recommended. Soup 480 Ft-750 Ft ($2.40-$3.75/
£1.25-£1.95); starters 940 Ft-2,350 Ft ($4.70-$12/£2.40-£6); main courses 1,580 Ft-3,450 Ft ($7.90-$17/
£4-£8.90). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-11pm. Tram: 59 from Déli Pályaudvar.
Inexpensive
Makkhetes Vendégló HUNGARIAN TRADITIONAL In the lower part
of the Buda Hills, Makkhetes (the name means “7 of Acorns,” a Hungarian playing
card) is a rustic little neighborhood eatery. The crude wood paneling and absence of
ornamentation give it a distinctly country atmosphere. The regulars (the waiters seem
to know everyone who enters) start filing in at 11:30am for lunch. The food is good
and the portions are large. You won't go wrong with the paprika csirke galuskával
(chicken paprika with dumplings). Outdoor dining is available.
XII. Németvölgyi út 56. & 1/355-7330. Soup 420 Ft-760 Ft ($1.65-$3.10/£1.10-£1.95); main courses 990 Ft-2,400
Ft ($3.80-$9.90/£2.55-£6.15). No credit cards. Daily 11am-10pm. Tram: 59 from Moszkva tér to Kiss János altábor-
nagy utca stop (then walk up hill to the right on Kiss János altábornagy utca).

Value

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