Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 308

THE CASTLE DISTRICT
Very Expensive
Arany Kaviár RUSSIAN This venue is a lavishly decorated Russian restaurant
that brings back memories of the Belle Epoque Russia of the time of the czars. Serv-
ing truly magnificent caviar, we think that this is the kind of place the characters of
Tolstoy could have frolicked, feasted, sang, and danced in. The plush interior is dec-
orated with Russian samovars, icons, and paintings depicting cold winter landscapes.
If your pocketbook can afford it, treat yourself to a wide variety of rather pricey
caviars, including Russian Astrakhan Beluga Caviar, or even more exotic Iranian vari-
eties. Meals take a long time, and are interrupted by swigs of fine vodka, which you
should only drink cold. We had a lavish cold-starter plate, rich with fish, caviar, king
prawns, and other seafood delights. The strips of beef prepared to Count Stroganoff 's
original recipe, which served as our main dish, was almost an aside. By the time it was
served, our spirits were deep in the cool Russian interior. The slowly served starters,
drinks, and sumptuous fireworks of different tastes served as appetizers fulfilled its
mission: to serve delicate foods as a hardy meal.
I. Ostrom u. 19. & 1/201-6737. www.aranykaviar.hu. Reservations required. Soup 850 Ft-1,800 Ft
($4.25-$9/£2.20-£4.60); starters 1,050 Ft-3,500 Ft ($5.25-$18/£2.70-£9); main courses 3,500 Ft-9,500 Ft
($18-$48/£9-£24). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily noon-midnight. Bus: Várbusz from Moszkva tér.
Expensive
Café Pierrot HUNGARIAN CONTEMPORARY This intimate, comfort-
able restaurant serving excellent cuisine was originally established as a real coffee-
house-style cafe, while over the years it developed to become the elegant establishment
that it is today. Following recent renovations, the atmosphere feels like a high-class
wine cellar decorated with contemporary artworks, soft lighting, and fresh orchids.
We started with a gooseliver trilogy, which included a brûlée, a liver terrine, and
grilled. If the Gundel's grilled gooseliver is the barometer by which to be measured,
then Pierrot lost out, being less tender and a little bit chunky. The marinated venison
steak, however, was truly delicious, and the place was also beautifully presented. The
menu also includes tempting dishes like oven-roasted duck breast or roasted guinea
fowl breast. The back part of the restaurant is more intimate, while the frontal area is
closer to the action. A pianist plays every evening after 6pm.
I. Fortuna u. 14. & 1/375-6971. www.pierrot.hu. Reservations recommended. Soups 990 Ft-1,190 Ft
($4.95-$5.95/£2.50-£3); starters 1,590 Ft-3,290 Ft ($7.95-$16/£4.10-£8.45); main courses 2,690 Ft-5,890 Ft
($13-$29/£6.90-£15). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-midnight. Bus: Várbusz from Moszkva tér.
Inexpensive
Café Miró HUNGARIAN CONTEMPORARY Located in the heart of the cas-
tle area, this restaurant and coffee and pastry shop is an ideal place to stop in between
visiting museums and getting to know the area. Miró, named affectionately after the
20th-century surrealist painter, also serves an assortment of salads and warm dishes,
the most popular being a spring salad with chicken, Roquefort cheese, and avocado
slices. We had the mozzarella and spinach turkey breast served with potato croquettes,
which was palatable. The service here is not top-notch either; being either slow (we
waited more than three-quarters of an hour for our meal), or without a smile. It is,
however, the most convenient and comfortable place for a brief respite in this area.
I. Úri u. 30. & 1/201-5573 . Soups 790 Ft-990 Ft ($3.95-$4.95/£2-£2.50); starters 1,390 Ft-1,590 Ft
($6.95-$7.95/£3.60-£4.10); main courses 1,790 Ft-2,890 Ft ($8.95-$14/£4.60-£7.40). No credit cards. Daily
9am-midnight. Bus: Várbusz from Moszkva tér.