Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 285

at night; you can always choose to cross a street aboveground if an underpass
appears deserted.)
Smoking Smoking is forbidden in all public places (including all public trans-
portation), except in most restaurants and pubs, where smoking is considered
to be an indispensable part of the ambience. Although a 1999 law requires all
restaurants to have a nonsmoking section, the fact is that most barely comply.
Expect most restaurants to be smoky places. Tilos a dohányzás or Dohányozni
tilos means “No Smoking.”
Taxes Taxes are included in restaurant and hotel rates, and in shop purchases.
International travelers are entitled, upon leaving the country, to a refund of
the 25% VAT on certain purchases.
Telephone The country code for Hungary is 36. To call to Hungary from abroad:
Dial the appropriate numbers to get an international dial tone (011 from the
U.S.), then dial 36 (Hungary country code), followed by the appropriate city
code (for Budapest, 1), followed by the six- or seven-digit telephone number.
To make international calls: To make international calls from Hungary, dial 00
and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61,
New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. To make a call from
one Hungary area code to another, first dial 06; when you hear a tone, dial the
area code and number.
Time Zone Hungary is on Central European time, 2 hours ahead of Greenwich
Mean Time and 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time from March 26 to
October 26; from October 27 to March 25 (during the equivalent of daylight
saving time), the difference is 1 hour and 5 hours, respectively.
Tipping If a restaurant bill includes a service fee, as some restaurants do (be
sure to ask), there is no need to tip; if not, add 15% to 20% to the bill.
Water Tap water is generally considered safe for drinking. Mineral water,
which many Hungarians prefer to tap water, is called ásványvíz. Purified bot-
tled water has pink labels for identification.
3 Budapest
Living and working in Budapest today, I see a buzzing culture that is becoming more
and more dynamically European. A vibrant young generation is proof of this. While
the political elite continue to argue about the past, the youth are concentrating on the
future. They're becoming multilingual; they're creating new film festivals and fashion
shows. The scene they're developing is vibrant and fun—if a bit secretive and cliquish.
While it might take some time to enter into their world, it's a fun journey in the end.
They are playing catch-up, living off the seat of their pants.
ARRIVING
BY PLANE The easiest way into the city is probably the Airport Minibus
( & 1/296-8555; www.bud.hu), a public service of the LRI (Budapest Airport Author-
ity). The minibus, which leaves every 10 or 15 minutes throughout the day, takes you
directly to any address in the city. From either terminal, it costs 2,300 Ft ($12/£6.50);