Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 283

With the addition of many new hotels and pensions (small innlike hotels) that have
opened in recent years, Budapest has been playing catch-up, and as a result is not a
city lacking in guest beds, as it once was. This said, in high season—or, say, during the
Formula 1 weekend in August—it can still be quite difficult to secure a hotel or pen-
sion room or a hostel bed, so make reservations and get written confirmation well in
advance of your stay.
In Budapest and the rest of Hungary, keep in mind that if you want a room with a
double bed, you should specifically request it; otherwise, you are likely to get a room
with twin beds. Single rooms are generally available, as are extra beds or cots. Hun-
garian hotels often use the word “apartment” to describe connected rooms without a
kitchen. In these listings, we have referred to such rooms as “suites,” reserving the term
“apartment” for accommodations with kitchen facilities.
Most accommodations agencies can secure private room rentals in private homes
and help reserve hotel and pension rooms. The most established agencies are the for-
mer state-owned travel agents Ibusz (see below), MÁV Tours ( & 1/182-9011 ), and
Budapest Tourist ( & 1/117-3555 ). Although newer private agencies continue to
bloom, the older agencies tend to have the greatest number of rooms listed. There are
agencies at the airport, in all three major train stations, throughout central Pest, and
along the main roads into Budapest for travelers arriving by car. You can also reserve
online through many of the agencies listed below.
The main Ibusz reservations office is at Ferenciek tere 10 ( & 1/485-2700; fax
1/318-2805; www.ibusz.hu), accessible by the Blue metro line. This office is open
year-round Monday through Friday 9am to 6pm.
TIPS ON DINING
Étterem is the most common Hungarian word for restaurant and is applied to every-
thing from cafeteria-style eateries to first-class restaurants. A vendégl ó , or guesthouse,
is a smaller, more intimate restaurant (literally an “inn”), often with a Hungarian folk
motif; a csárda is a countryside vendégl ó (often built on major motorways and fre-
quently found around Lake Balaton and other holiday areas). An étkezde is an infor-
mal lunchroom open only in the daytime, while an önkiszolgáló means self-service
cafeteria; these are typically open only for lunch. Stand-up büfés (snack counters) are
often found in bus stations and near busy transportation hubs. A cukrászda or kávéház
is a classic central European coffeehouse, where lingering over a beverage and pastry
has developed into an art form.
There are also a variety of establishments that, though primarily designed for drink-
ing, also serve meals. A borozó is a wine bar; these are often found in cellars (they are
likely to include in their name the word pince [cellar] or barlang [cave]), and generally
feature a house wine. A söröz ó is a beer bar; these places, too, are often found in cellars.
Sandwiches are usually available in borozós and söröz ó s. Finally, a kocsma is a sort of road-
side tavern. Kocsmas are found on side streets in residential neighborhoods; the Buda
Hills are filled with them. Most kocsmas serve a full dinner, but the kitchens close early.
Warning: While this country is landlocked, many restaurants pride themselves of
their fresh seafood delights. Many Hungarians probably hark back to a time when the
sea was a part of this land, and some even think that the sea is closer than it actually
is. The fact is, such a promise is hard to keep; we recommend staying away from
imported seafood. At traditional Hungarian restaurants you will find delightful local
fish: Szeged or Tisza fish soups are delicious, and far better than a far-from-fresh
seafood platter.