Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 277

HUNGARY TODAY
Having acceded to the European Union, Hungary is today going through a series of
painful reforms. Because of a continued political polarization of the country between
the left- and right-leaning crowds, talking politics in Hungary is a hot potato. While
the systemic changes over a decade and a half ago were bloodless, they did not hap-
pen without leaving deep scars. Many former Communists remain in the corridors of
power on both sides of the political spectrum, to the chagrin of many. In the mean-
time, Hungary joined the European Union, and the strained political situation has
introduced painful reforms. What the result of these will be, and whether they will be
successful, is the question of the day.
HUNGARIAN PEOPLE & CULTURE
Ethnic Magyars make up about 94% of the population of Hungary. The population
of the Roma (Gypsies) lingers around 2% according to official counts, but numbers
of up to 4% have been reported, too. The rest of the population is made up primarily
of Germans, Slovaks, Croatians, and Romanians.
Magyars are courteous and generally friendly toward foreigners. If you are invited
to someone's home, bring a small gift such as chocolate, wine, or fresh flowers, and
learn a few key words of Hungarian—even if your hosts speak English. As always, it
is the effort that counts.
Tip: Tread carefully when talking about Hungarian politics. Hungary is politically
divided between the conservative and right-wing nationalists, liberals, and the social-
ists—and opinions can divide families. We advise you start with something light
before moving into heated political debates.
HUNGARIAN CUISINE
Hungary's cuisine reflects the rich and varied flavors of four major geographic regions.
From Transdanubia, west of the River Danube, come rich mushroom sauces, sorrel
soups, cottage cheese and onion dumplings, and high-quality gooseliver. A host of
excellent wild-game dishes are prominent in forested northern Hungary. Bucolic
Erdély (Transylvania) introduces spices such as tarragon, summer savory, and fresh dill
to the palate, and is also known for its lamb dishes and sheep's cheese. And, finally,
from the Great Hungarian Plain, the home of Hungary's renowned paprika, come
hearty fish, bean, and meat stews all spiced with the red powder ground from differ-
ent varieties of peppers ranging from édes (sweet) to csíp ó s (hot).
Lunch, the main meal of the day, begins with soup. Gyümölcs leves, a cold fruit
soup, is excellent when in season. Sóskakrém leves, cream of sorrel soup, is another
good seasonal choice. Babgulyás, a hearty bean soup, and halaszle, a fish soup popular
at river- and lakeside spots, constitute meals in themselves.
The main course is generally a meat dish. Try the paprikás csirke, chicken cooked in
a savory paprika sauce. It's especially good with galuska, a pasta dumpling. Pulykamell,
turkey breast baked with plums and served in a mushroom gravy, is also delicious.
Another great choice is Pörkölt, a stewed meat dish that comes in many varieties.
Töltött káposzta, whole cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, meat, and spices, is another
favorite.
LANGUAGE
Part of Budapest's mystery stems from the complex and unusual language of the Hun-
garians, Magyar. Magyar originated on the eastern side of the Ural Mountains: Along