Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pretentious upmarket hotels in Roma-
nia, this is where VIPs visiting the
country's most western city stay when
they're striking the latest deal or hid-
ing from the press. If you can drag
yourself out your plush room, you'll
probably get no farther than the
lounge or garden—where you'll be
tempted to curl up next to the fire or
laze beside the pool. It's like being in
your favorite uncle's mansion. See
p. 538.
Staying in Count Kalnoky's Guest-
houses (Miclo @ oara, Romania).
Tudor Kalnoky was born abroad but
returned to his Transylvanian home-
land after the fall of Communism to
reclaim his royal birthright. Having
fallen in love with the little Hungar-
ian village once ruled by his fore-
bears, he has set about restoring some
of its old houses, and ended up creat-
ing one of the most wonderful accom-
modations opportunities in the whole
country. See p. 524.
Delta Nature Resort, Danube (Delta,
Romania). This is the first luxury
resort in what is widely regarded as
the last wilderness in Europe. Guests
are ensconced in plush cottages for
the night (after enjoying local caviar),
while during the day you're given
endless options for wildlife encoun-
ters (including spying the 300 species
of birds that find their way here each
year) and cultural exploration (includ-
ing rubbing shoulders with nuns and
members of the small Lipovan com-
munities that have settled in the
Delta). See p. 561.
Baltschug Kempinski (Moscow,
Russia). The hotel's views of St. Basil's
Cathedral and the Kremlin are so
breathtaking that TV networks set up
here for their stand-ups. The brunch
is fit for a czar, and the understated
elegance of the rooms complements
the facade's pastel ornamentation. See
p. 577.
Grand Hotel Europe (St. Peters-
burg, Russia). This baroque confec-
tion in central St. Petersburg charmed
Tchaikovsky and Bill Clinton, among
other dignitaries. The harpist and the
plush furniture of the mezzanine cafe
provide respite from a day of touring.
See p. 594.
Królewski (Gda ^ sk, Poland). Rooms
to die for just across the canal from
Gda ^ sk's Old Town. Room no. 310 is
a corner room, with views over the
city in two directions. The breakfast
room looks over the river at the town.
You'll feel like they've handed you the
keys to the city. See p. 453.
Grandhotel Praha (High Tatras,
Slovakia). You're in the Tatras, so
why not spend a little extra to stay at
this beautifully restored turn-of-the-
20th-century Alpine manor (that
manages to match the mountains for
style and grace). The elegantly restored
lobby, billiard room, restaurant, and
cafe will immediately have you think-
ing you stepped into The Great
Gatsby or an Agatha Christie novel.
See p. 628.
Vila Bled (Slovenia). It was good
enough for Marshall Tito to entertain
some of the most powerful men on
earth, and now its suites are like
miniature museums to the monu-
mental and fatal ambitions of Com-
munism, all preserved like a staid
1950s mausoleum. The lakeside set-
ting may be perfect, but imagine a
world in which everything is mono-
grammed and guests get to lounge on
a private lido with a perfect view of a
1,000-year-old hilltop castle. Oh,
and the handsome lifeguard doubles
as your cocktail waiter! See p. 666.
Nebesa (Slovenia). Anywhere else in
the world, this paradisiacal four-cot-
tage “resort” would be considered a
bargain. The real splurge is time-
related: You'll need to drive several
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