Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 185

area) charges 1.20kn (20¢/10p) per hour or $4 per day. ATMs are located near the
ticket office as is an exchange that is open from 6am to 10pm daily. Frequent buses
link Zagreb and all of Croatia's main cities, which in turn hook up with local lines that
run to virtually every village in the country.
BY TRAIN The 19th-century Zagreb train station (Glavni Kolodvor) facing Trg
Kralja Tomislava on the city's green horseshoe was renovated in 2004 and is now a
pink confection adorned with angels and other statuary. It is close to bus and tram
connections into the city center, which is a 10-minute walk with several hotels along
the way. A 24-hour garderoba is available for 10kn ($1.75/90p) per day. A restaurant
with a lovely terrace overlooks the park. There are ATMs, exchange facilities, and an
information center (6-10am, 10:30am-6pm, and 6:30-10pm).
Catch the no. 5, 6, or 13 tram in front of the Kralja Tomislav monument to get to
Trg Bana Josip Jeli c i 5 a. Routes may vary, so watch for handwritten signs listing
changes taped up at bus stops.
BY CAR Driving in Zagreb can be nerve-racking. Most streets are marked by small
ornamental signs on plaques affixed to building walls at intersections, so you can't see
the sign until you're past the intersection. Many buildings in Zagreb do not display
street numbers at all or if they do, they can't be read unless you are on top of them.
To complicate matters, there is a tangled network of one-way and pedestrian streets.
Add to that perpetual street construction and a parking dearth, and you have a driver's
nightmare inside the city limits.
VISITOR INFORMATION
The Zagreb Tourist Information Center (Trg Bana Jela c i 5 a 11; & 01/481-40-51;
www.zagreb-touristinfo; 8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat; and 10am-2pm Sun
and holidays). It sells the Zagreb Card for 60kn ($10/£5.50), which covers 72 hours
of unlimited city transportation (including the Sjleme cable car), a 50% discount at
most museums and galleries, and discounts at participating businesses. There is a sec-
ond Tourist Information Center at Trg Nikole S ubi 5 a Zrinskog 14 ( & 01/492-16-45 ).
The Zagreb County Tourist Association at Preradovi 5 eva 42 ( & 01/487-36-65;
www.tzzz.hr) is invaluable for information about excursions from Zagreb. Hours are
8am to 4pm Monday to Friday.
Croatia Airlines has an office at Trg Nikole S ubi 5 a Zrinskog 17 ( & 01/481-96-
33 ). It is open 8am to 7pm Monday to Friday and 8am to 3pm Saturday. Tours to
sites and cities in Zagreb and throughout Croatia can be arranged through Atlas
Travel (Zrinjevac 17; & 01/481-39-33 ), Croatia's largest agency. Atlas is also Croa-
tia's American Express agent. Generalturist, at Pra s ka 5 ( & 01/480-55-55; www.

generalturist.com), books flights, excursions, and other trips.
CITY LAYOUT
Zagreb is nestled between Mount Medvednica and the Sava River. It is a sprawling
city, but almost every attraction of note is within 2.4km (1 1 ⁄ 2 miles) of Trg Bana
Jela c i 5 a, the city's main square. The area north of the Trg Jela c i 5 a includes Gornji
Grad (Upper Town) and its Gradec and Kaptol neighborhoods, which are perhaps
Zagreb's most picturesque areas. Donji Grad (Lower Town) south of Trg Jela c i 5 a
includes Zagreb's central green spaces known as the Green Horseshoe and runs south
to the main train station. You can walk to most points of interest from Trg Jela c i 5 a, or
hop on the public tram system for 6.50kn ($1.15/60p) per ride. After that, only a