Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 184

of chopped cukes, tomatoes, onions, and peppers covered with shaved sheep cheese
and tav 5 e grav 5 e (beans in a paprika sauce), a dish that will make you turn up your
nose at canned pork and beans forever.
Opatija is also loaded with affordable pizza places and cafes, most of which are
along Mar s ala Tita and the Lungomare.
NIGHTLIFE
Croatia's zero-tolerance law has toned down Opatija's nightlife scene as would-be rev-
elers from Rijeka figured that they could no longer go there to party and risk driving
home if they had even a single drink. But even without Rijeka traffic, the town still
rocks until around 11pm, which is closing hour for most Opatija restaurants and bars.
Until then, you can sip a glass of wine, have a beer, or get rowdy at Hemingway's on
the promenade or at any restaurant or cafe along the way. However, the most night-
time action is on the Lungomare and Mar s ala Tita —and it is alcohol-free. On any
given evening it looks like all of Croatia is out taking a stroll, rollerblading, or paus-
ing to watch break dancers and mimes. An ice-cream cone is the party treat of choice.
EXPLORING OPATIJA
Promenading on S etali s te Franza Josefa in the evening is an art form in Croa-
tia in general and in Opatija in particular, and this 12km (7.2-mile) flagstone walkway
along the shore from Volosko (2km/1 1 ⁄ 4 miles north of Opatija) to Lovran
(5.6km/3 1 ⁄ 2 miles south of Opatija) is the granddaddy of them all. It runs past Villa
Angiolina , the villa that started it all, and that is now a popular venue for wed-
dings when it isn't being used for art exhibits and other cultural events. Open daily June
to September from 10am to 9pm.
8 Zagreb
618km (384 miles) N of Dubrovnik; 408km (253 miles) N of Split; 265km (165 miles) NE of Pula
Because visitors to Croatia tend to use Zagreb as a stopover rather than a destination,
many of the city's charms are overlooked. It takes patience to discover Zagreb, and it
takes knowledge about the past to understand its Balkan soul.
ARRIVING
BY PLANE Zagreb is the entry point for most visitors to Croatia, but there are no
direct flights from the U.S., Canada, or Australia. Croatia Air, the national airline
company, connects Zagreb with many European hubs as well as with other Croatian
cities. Pleso International Airport ( & 385 01/626-52-22 ) is 16km (10 miles) south
of the city center, and Croatia Air operates a shuttle every 30 minutes from 5:30am
to 7:30pm between the airport and Zagreb's main bus station for 25kn ($4/£2.15)
one-way. The ride takes half an hour ( & 385 01/615 79 92 ). Taxi fares to the city
center run between 150kn and 250kn ($26-$45/£14-£23). Note: Croatia Air's lug-
gage weight limits may differ from those of other international carriers, so if you are
not checking your luggage directly through to Zagreb, you should query Croatia Air
on this policy, which is subject to seasonal changes.
Note: When returning to the U.S., be aware that Croatia Air does not allow bat-
tery-operated devices in checked luggage, so remove them before checking your bag.
BY BUS Zagreb's bus station is a bright, efficient hub with restaurants, shops, a post
office, and local connections to the city center. A 24-hour garderoba (luggage storage