Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 179

variable), hot-air balloon competitions, and a festival celebrating truffles and wine. It
also doesn't hurt that this hilltop town is just 20 minutes east of Pore c and home to
the delightful Hotel Ka s tel .
One of the most compelling reasons to stop at nearby Ro c is its location at one end
of the Glagolitic Alley. A string of 10 outdoor sculptures that dot the road between
Ro c and Hum was erected between 1977 and 1981 to celebrate and preserve
Glagolitic script. Even though there aren't any explanations on most of them, the
sculptures (dedicated to Glagolitic scholars) are interesting to look at. Today Ro c is
primarily known as a center of Glagolitic literature, and every year the town puts on
the Small Glagolitic Academy to keep the traditional writing alive. Private rooms are
available in Ro c (there are signs on the road), and there is a decent konoba. The short
strip of road that links Ro c and Hum is just 6.4km (4 miles) long, but it is a historic
corridor because of the commemorative Glagolitic sculptures along the way. Even
though Hum's claim to fame is its status as the world's smallest town, from the looks
of tourism in the present-day village, that could be changing. Tiny Hum has spiffed
up in the last 3 years and is quite appealing. Only about 20 permanent residents live
within its well-preserved walls, which enclose two small streets and two churches (one
dating from the 12th c.).
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
Istria's inter-city buses (www.autotrans.hr) serve Motuvun, Roc, and Hum, but serv-
ice can be slow and erratic. Renting a car or booking a guided excursion are the most
efficient ways to see these tiny treasures. The important sites in all these towns can be
easily accessed on foot.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Information on all three towns and their festivals is available at the Istria County
Tourist Offices in Pula and Pore c and in each town's local bureau. Motovun's tourist
office is at Andrea Antico bb ( & 052/681-642 ); the Tourist Information Office in
Buzet serves Ro c and Hum. It is at Trg Fontana 7/1 in Buzet ( & 052/662-343; www.
tzg-buje.hr) and can provide information on private accommodations, including
farmhouse stays, camping, and events.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Besides the Hotel Ka s tel in Motovun, the only accommodations in these villages are
in private homes, making this an ideal area to try a farmhouse stay and to savor the
flavors of Istria at a local dining establishment.
Hotel Ka s tel in Motovun at Trg Andrea Antico 7 ( & 052/681-607 ) provides
panoramic views of the Mirna valley and each guest room offers a different perspec-
tive. Guest rooms, which start at 70

€

($84) for a double, were refurbished in 2003
and are equipped with modern bathrooms that don't destroy the character of the 17th-
century structure, which once was a palace. If you call ahead, the hotel will pick you
up at the bottom of the street leading into Motovun so you don't have to drag your
luggage uphill.
Barbacan Enoteque & Restaurant on the main walkway into Motovun at Bar-
bakan 1 ( & 052/681-791 ) is pricier than most, but it's also more interesting. Start
with the pâté of veal sweetbreads with truffles or the truffled chicken broth. Entrees
include filet of beef with black truffle butter, and risotto Montonese with saffron gar-
lic and truffles.