Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
•
Swimming to Bled Island (Slovenia).
Officially the rules say you shouldn't
do it, but the most memorable experi-
ence of Lake Bled—one of the most
beautiful bodies of water in Europe—
is a muscle-working swim from the
shore to its miniature isle, which has
a lovely church dedicated to the Vir-
gin Mary. If you're one of the not-so-
brave, you can always hire a boat and
row yourself there, or get one of the
aspirant gondoliers to take you over
in a
pletna,
Bled's very own answer to
Venetian gondolas. See chapter 12.
•
Discovering Magnificence in the
Bowels of the Earth (Slovenia).
Slovenia has thousands of Karstic
caves, but those protected by
UNESCO in the
S
kocjan park are
truly unforgettable. Matchless subter-
ranean architecture is built with sta-
lactites, stalagmites, and rim limestone
pools not to mention the world's
largest underground canyon, stupen-
dous bridges, and drop-away galleries
that all work to reconfigure your
understanding of life on earth. See
chapter 12.
•
Staying in a Village Home in Mara-
mure
@
(Romania).
The farming vil-
lages of Maramure
@
occupy an idyllic
mountainous landscape near Roma-
nia's northern border with the Ukraine.
Here you'll discover some of the most
bucolic communities in all of Europe;
there are still more horse-drawn carts
than there are motor vehicles, and
many households have a cow or two
in the backyard. You'll be surrounded
by warm, friendly people, many of
whom dress only in traditional cos-
tume. If you stay with the Pop family
in Hoteni, you'll also be introduced
to genuine folk music by a genuine
Eastern European legend. See p. 544.
•
Traveling by Train through Tran-
sylvania (Romania).
You may not
have Count Dracula as your guide,
but the terrain encompassed by the
land “beyond the forest” will set any
heart racing. As you wind through
vast tracts of forest and pass soaring
mountains, often your only reminders
of human habitation will be a church
steeple peeking through a forest
canopy, or a small family of farmers
cutting grass with a hand-held scythe.
Or the horrifying spectacle of a
hideous abandoned industrial com-
plex—built by the Communists—
suddenly appearing in the middle of
nowhere. See chapter 9.
•
Discovering the Order in the
Chaos of an Orthodox Mass in
Stavropoleos Church (Bucharest,
Romania).
Attending the beautifully
sung Mass at this small but delightful
church in the very heart of Bucharest
will make your spirit soar. Each day,
a Byzantine-style chorus draws a
dedicated congregation, while during
quiet periods one of the five young
nuns will happily talk you through
the deep spiritual significance of most
every aspect of Orthodox faith. See
p. 503.
•
Viewing Red Square at Night
(Moscow, Russia).
The crimson-and-
ivy-colored domes of St. Basil's Cathe-
dral rise in a dizzying welcome to this
most majestic of Russian plazas. Stand
on the rise in the center of the square
and feel a part of Russia's expanse. See
chapter 10.
•
Steam Your Stress Away at the San-
dunovsky Baths/Sandunovskiye
Banyi (Moscow, Russia).
Thaw your
eyelashes in January or escape snow
flurries in May in the traditional Russ-
ian bathhouse, something between
a sauna and a Turkish hammam.
The pristine Sandunovsky Baths in
Moscow are a special treat, with
Greek sculptures and marble baths.
See p. 582.
•
Watch the Drawbridges Open Along
the Neva River (St. Petersburg, Rus-
sia).
An unforgettable outing during
