Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 166

Zipping Through Zadar
During World War II, Zadar was almost destroyed by Allied forces, though
it was mostly rebuilt during the postwar Yugoslavia era. The city took
another devastating hit when it was isolated by Serb forces and reduced to
rubble in the 1991 war. Today, Zadar is fiercely nationalistic, an exceptional
mix of new and old architecture, and home to diverse cultures.
Thanks to the new A1 autocesta between Zagreb and Split, it takes just
3 hours to cover the 285km (177 miles) between there and Croatia's capital.
Frequent bus service, an airport, a train station, and a generous ferry sched-
ule also make Zadar accessible. However, despite tourist-friendly touches
like multilingual signs in front of notable sites, Zadar has not yet become a
prime stop for visitors, but its Old Town is worth at least of day of your time.
Start at St. Donatus Church and the Roman Forum in its
front yard. Look around the St. Donatus's unusual interior with a circular
center and watch kids ride their Big Wheels over the Forum's ancient stones.
Peek into the 11th-century Church of St. Mary across the street and
stop in at the Benedictine Convent next door to see its Gold and Silver of
Zadar exhibit , one of the best reliquary and religious-art collections
anywhere. Have the freshest of fish dinners at Fosa's open-air dining
room in the shadow of the city's walls. If you have time (and room), top off
the experience with a frozen treat from Slasticarna Donat off Obala
Kralja Petra Kresimira IV, the city's promenade, and pause to watch its non-
stop street theater. Finally, sit on the marble seaside steps off the prome-
nade and dangle your toes in the sea while you revel in the haunting
melody of Zadar's mesmerizing Sea Organ. It's an experience you won't
soon forget.
7 Istria & the Kvarner Gulf Region
Istria is a triangle-shaped peninsula at the northwestern end of Croatia that protrudes
just far enough into the Adriatic to catch the seductive Mediterranean climate while
the Kvarner Gulf Region lies directly east of there. Three sides of Istria are lined with
beaches and busy marinas, which in turn are festooned with Venetian-style towns that
look just as they must have when tall trading ships sailed in and out of their harbors.
Kvarner Gulf towns have an Austro-Hungarian bent.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
BY PLANE Istria's airport is at Pula, about 5km (3 miles) northwest of the center
of town, and it is served by Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr). There is also a
smaller airport for private planes and charters near Vrsar in the middle of the western
coast. Shuttle buses and taxis (60kn-70kn/$10-$12/£5.50-£6.40) run between Pula's
airport and the town center.
BY BOAT VeneziaLines runs catamarans from Venice to Umag, Pore c , Rovinj, Pula,
and Rabac; and from Rimini to Pula. Check the website (www.venezialines.com) or
call & 041/24-24-000 from 9am to 6pm Venice time to book tickets or for detailed