Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 156

PELJESAC PENINSULA
Vineyards, rugged terrain, a few medieval sites, good beaches, and sparse crowds are
the draws for this finger of land that protrudes into the sea half an hour north of
Dubrovnik. The peninsula is just 65km (40 miles) long, but the roads twist across hills
and valleys, making the drive to the peninsula's tip challenging.
Ston and Mali Ston are the peninsula towns closest to the mainland, and if you
venture no farther than that, you'll be rewarded with great photo ops, thanks to Ston's
14th-century walls , which snake up the hill behind the town like a mini Great Wall
of China. Ston is also the center of Croatia's oyster and mussel production as well as
an established working salt pan.
The peninsula beyond is wine country where dozens of family vineyards are ter-
raced onto the hills and planted in the valleys. Mike Grgi 5 of California winemaking
fame has a small winery at Trstenik. It is one of many operated by Croatia's big-name
vintners. Many vineyards also have tasting rooms, small restaurants, and even retail
outlets where you can sample and buy the latest vintages. At the tip of Pelje s ac, Ore-
bi c , is home to one of the country's best beaches and one of its more interesting water-
front promenades. Orebi c is also a great spot to set up home base for island hopping.
5 The Rest of Southern Dalmatia
Southern Dalmatia is a relatively narrow expanse of land, but it is fringed by hundreds
of islands. To get the most out of a trip to this region, first-time visitors should settle
on a few nearby locations that offer multiple attractions—watersports, historic archi-
tecture, and/or natural wonders— after checking out transportation options and travel
times between them.
Warning: Ferry schedules, mountainous roads, and circuitous routes characteristic
of this region can make the time it takes to travel even short distances deceiving.
Booking a guided tour that hits the highlights while leaving ferry connections and
logistical problems to an expert is another option.
HVAR ISLAND/HVAR TOWN
St. Tropez, Majorca, Aspen, and other glamour destinations don't have anything on
Hvar, the glitzy island playground patronized by celebrities, the idle rich, and the aver-
age visitor.
The island is a hilly piece of real estate with very rocky terrain, a few vineyards, and
patches of wild lavender between abandoned stone structures and sparsely populated
villages. The island's principal population centers are Hvar Town, Stari Grad,
Vrboska, Jelsa, and Sucuraj, towns that have ferry/catamaran ports. Hvar Town is the
island's tourism epicenter.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
Jadrolinija operates service to Stari Grad and Sucuraj and buses connect from there to
Hvar Town and Jelsa. Jadrolinija ( & 021/741-132 ) has offices in both Hvar Town
and Stari Grad and can provide prices and schedules. Sem Marina runs a daily boat to
Hvar Town from Split via Kor c ula and tourist agencies operate other island hoppers.
A bus will take you from Hvar Town to Stari Grad and back, but if you want to see
anything else, a car is necessary. Hvar Town is closed to vehicular traffic from the bus
station to the Riva, which is clogged with pedestrians until after nightfall when the
main square, Trg Sveti Stjepana, becomes the central mob scene.