Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 150

It's a Tough Job, But . . .
Old Ragusa's rectors were elected for a period of 1 month, after which they
were sent on a 2-year-long vacation. The reasoning was that the city fathers
didn't want anyone to stay in office long enough to accumulate power. Many
rectors served their time living in the palace alone, leaving only for official
duties, though the rector's family was allowed to accompany him. But if they
did, they had to follow the same house rules. The rector could stand for reelec-
tion to another month-long term, but not until he completed his 2-year hiatus.

Fun Fact

STARA LUKA (OLD HARBOR) DISTRICT
West of St. John's Fortress and to the right of the Rector's Palace is Gunduli 5 Square,
where a raucous market selling fruits, vegetables, cheeses, homemade wine, recy-
cled water bottles filled with rakija (fruit brandy), and other produce is open for busi-
ness every morning.
The Jesuit Steps , a long set of baroque stairs off Gundulic market, are
reminiscent of Rome's Spanish Steps. They lead up to the Church of St. Ignatius
Loyola , Dubrovnik's largest house of worship. The stairs were severely damaged
in the 1991-92 siege, but have been restored. They end at the 1658 Jesuit College
where many of Ragusa's greatest scholars were educated.
The Plo c e Gate is at the eastern end of the Old City and, like the Pile
Gate, it has inner and outer sections. The 15th-century portal is approached via a stone
bridge.
BEACHES
Croatians loosely define beaches as any place the sea meets the land, and while some
beaches may have names, many are little more than rocks used for sunbathing and div-
ing platforms. One “beach” around the corner from the old port is a must-see, if not
a must- swim area where those who are confident swimmers routinely take a dip
from a rocky ledge. There is even a water polo setup where tournaments are held.
Dubrovnik's main public beach, Banje, exists as a beach club (see below). Bobin
Kuk's Copacabana Beach is a pebble-and-concrete affair with a view of the graceful
Dubrovnik bridge and part of the Elafiti Islands. It is one of the few Dubrovnik
beaches with facilities for kids, sports enthusiasts, and swimmers with disabilities. A
lift on the concrete part of the beach gives seniors and people with disabilities easy
access to the water. A beach bar and restaurant provide refreshments and at night the
bar becomes a cocktail lounge/disco. Lapad Bay is another popular spot for beachgo-
ers and many hotels there have built stairs leading to the flat concrete slabs they call
beaches.
The Eastwest Beach Club at Frana Supila bb. ( & 020/412-220 ) situated
on Dubrovnik's public pebble beach (Banje) about 46m (150 ft.) from the entrance
to the Plo c e (Eastern) Gate. The club has a restaurant with a view, a cocktail bar with
dance floor, watersports, a pebble beach with crystal-clear water, attendants, and the
unique baldachin, which is a “bed” on the beach that looks like a raised four-poster
hung with gauzy curtains. You can rent the baldachin for 200kn ($35/£18) per day.