Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 136

TIPS ON DINING
Croatian cuisine, like the country itself, is regional in character and divided into
coastal and interior styles, with fish and pasta the prevalent offerings in Dalmatia and
Istria, grilled meat the entree of choice in the interior, and anything laced with paprika
the specialty in Slavonia, the country's easternmost region. Meals at most Croatian
restaurants are excellent values, but the smaller, family-run establishments known as
konobas generally are the best buy because much of the food and wine is family pro-
duced, prepared, and reasonably priced. Whether you choose a restaurant that aspires
to be “gourmet,” an intimate ma-and-pa place, or a meal cobbled from the town mar-
ket and corner pekara (bakery), you should try local specialties like c evap c i 5 i (spicy
grilled beef or pork meatballs), blitva (Swiss chard boiled and served with potatoes,
olive oil and garlic), and burek (a heavy pastry filled with cheese, meat, or fruit). Fish
is often sold by the kilogram in restaurants and the average portion is about 250 grams
(9 oz.). Service is almost always included in the menu prices, though leaving loose
change as a tip is appreciated. Credit cards are accepted at many upscale restaurants,
but even some of the fancier dining rooms offer a discount for cash.
Note: In Dubrovnik, many restaurants no longer build gratuities into the cost of a
meal, though almost all charge a couvert, which is a cover charge attached to the bread
basket. If you don't want bread, refuse it before it lands on your table and you'll avoid
the couvert.
TIPS ON SHOPPING
Unless you are looking for regional items such as Pag lace, Hvar lavender oil, naive art
oil-on-glass paintings by artists from the Hlebine school, or Rijeka Mor c i 5 i (ceramic
and gold jewelry depicting a black woman in a turban), you'll find that most cloth-
ing, shoes, jewelry, and textiles sold in Croatia are imported and expensive. To w n
markets are the best sources for local specialties like homemade rakija (brandy), laven-
der sachets and soap, as well as T-shirts and beachwear. Grisia Street in Rovinj and
Tkl c i 5 eva Street in Zagreb are just two examples of town sites where you can find
clusters of ateliers, galleries, one-of-a-kind jewelry, crafts, and clothing by Croatian
designers. Department stores are open from 8am to 8pm weekdays and 8am to 2 or
3pm Saturdays. Many grocery stores are open Sunday mornings and most town mar-
kets are open daily from 7am to noon or beyond.
FAST FACTS: Croatia
American Express Atlas Travel (www.atlas-croatia.com) is the agent for Amer-
ican Express in Croatia, with offices in most major cities.
Business Hours Banks and post offices are generally open from 7am to 7pm
Monday to Friday without midday breaks. Public offices are open Monday to
Friday from 8am to 4pm. During the tourist season, post offices are generally
open until 9pm, including Saturday. Shops and department stores stay open
from 8am to 8pm and to 2pm Saturday without a break.
Drugstores Ljekarna are open from 8am to 7pm weekdays and until 2pm on
Saturday. In larger cities, one pharmacy will be open 24 hours.
Electricity Croatian electricity is 220V, 50 Hz; and the two-prong European plug
is standard.