Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 135

within Croatia. Express routes on updated highways facilitate travel among major
cities and buses stop at almost every village in the country, though schedules might be
inconvenient for those with limited time.
BY FERRY Ferry/catamaran travel is a way of life on Croatia's coast. There is no
other way to get to the islands (except Pag and Krk, which are linked to the mainland
via bridges). Jadrolinija, Sem Marina, and SNAV are the major ferry operators In sum-
mer, ferry schedules are beefed up to handle increased traffic, but not necessarily
aligned to make connections and island hopping convenient. In winter some lines
reduce their schedules. Whenever there is a bura, ferries can be sidelined.
Note: When planning your trip, do not underestimate the time it takes to travel by
ferry. Besides calculating time for the water crossing, build in time to get to the ferry
port, wait in line (which can be hours), and get to your final destination. Check sched-
ules carefully as not all routes operate every day.
BY CAR Driving is the best method for seeing the real Croatia—even the islands.
However, car rental and fuel, with a subcompact starting at about $50 a day and gas
selling at unprecedented high prices, can be expensive. During July and August it is
important to reserve a rental car before you arrive.
Croatia's main highways (autocestas) are well marked, and well maintained. Sec-
ondary roads vary in quality and can range from excellent to unmarked dirt tracts. Gas
stations are readily available near the larger cities. They are usually open from 7am to
7pm every day and until 10pm in the summer.
Note: It's a good idea to get a Croatia road map that locates gas stations across the
country before you start a long trip. These are usually available at the stations them-
selves. See www.ina.hr, www.hak.hr, and www.omvistrabenz.hr for details.
BY TRAIN Croatian Railways (www.hznet.hr) is an efficient way to travel between
Zagreb and the northern and inland parts of the country. All of Croatia's major cities
except Dubrovnik are connected by train service.
TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS
Thanks to its longtime popularity as a vacation spot for European travelers, Croatia
has an ample supply of accommodations, but the types and quality vary widely. Hotels
are the most expensive option, in the shortest supply, and often in need of updating
despite labels like “luxury” and “modern.” All resort hotels fill up fast, so be sure to
reserve early. Some hotels require full-board bookings of no fewer than 7 days in sum-
mer and those that do book on a daily B&B basis often tack on a surcharge of as much
as 50% per day.
Note: Some hoteliers will offer a discount if you pay with cash.
Private accommodations are an economical alternative and can range from grand
apartments to a bed in a dormlike room. Private accommodations can be booked
through local agencies, online, or secured through individuals who solicit customers
at ferry ports and train and bus stations. Private accommodations often require a min-
imum multinight stay. Payment is almost always on a cash basis.
Campsites generally have loads of amenities and prime locations near the sea. They
can accommodate backpackers or families with RVs, but they fill up quickly in sum-
mer and reservations are a must. Croatia also has almost two dozen FKK (nudist)
camps as well as some bare-bones hostels in the larger cities. Rates for all kinds of
accommodations, including campsites, in the coastal areas are highest in July and
August—sometimes double the usual rates.