Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 130

The 1991-95 war devastated Croatia's economy, but the country is no charity case.
Croatians see themselves as an active part of modern Europe with ties to western
Europe. When Croatia was still part of Yugoslavia, Tito recognized and cultivated
global relationships throughout his watch as the country's leader. Unlike other people
under Communist influence at the time, Yugoslavians (including Croatians) were
allowed to work and travel abroad, and to own property. In addition, they welcomed
tourists from all over the world, a tradition that is now one of Croatia's most impor-
tant sources of income. Modern Croatians value progress, family and friends, good
food and wine, nice clothes, vacations on the coast, the environment, the country's
historical treasures, and most of all, freedom.
CROATIAN CUISINE
Dining is a national sport in Croatia. Food is good in all regions of the country. How-
ever, besides consistent quality and an ever-present offering of grilled meat and fish
and pizza from north to south, each part of the country prides itself on specific tradi-
tional dishes.
Cuisine in continental Croatia is more substantial than in other regions. Smoked
meats and cheese (prgica) are popular in regional markets, while sarma (ground meat
in sour cabbage leaves), and krvavice (blood sausage with sauerkraut) are main meal
staples. S trukle (phyllo filled with fresh cheese, apples, cherries, or other fruit) and
pala c inke (crepes filled with honey and walnuts or jam). In Gorski Kotar & Lika in
southwest central Croatia, homemade cheeses, fruit brandies, and spit-roasted lamb
and pork are favorites. Look for janjetina (lamb) baked under a bell-shaped lid (peka)
or roasted over an open grill.
Istria and the Kvarner Gulf regions boast the most diverse cuisine in Croatia. In
the Kvarner, try Creska janjetina (lamb from the island of Cres) and s kampi (shrimp
dishes) or try any of the game stews infused with bay leaves that grow in the moun-
tainous part of Cres island. On Pag, sample Pa s ki sir (Pag cheese), a unique salty
sheep cheese infused with herbal notes because of the animals' diet of local vegeta-
tion, lamb, and pr s ut. In Istria, any dish with tartufe (truffles) is worth a try. Istarski
fu z i sa gulasom od divlja c i (pasta with game goulash) is sublime. Istria is also the
source of some of Croatia's best wines. The main meal in Dalmatia typically starts
with pr s ut and Pa s ki sir scattered with olives and drizzled with oil. Kamenice (oysters)
from the shellfish beds of Ston on the Pelje s ac Peninsula are prized, as is anything
from the sea.
LANGUAGE
Language can be the most daunting aspect of a trip to Croatia for any English-speak-
ing tourist. Signs in Croatian look like gibberish to English speakers, and conversa-
tions sound like it, too. Even with a dictionary, it is difficult to understand what is
being said and it is even more difficult to figure out how to form the words for a
response. Croatians realize that theirs is a complicated language; consequently, most
are fluent in at least one other language, usually German, Italian, or English. How-
ever, Croatian words are fairly easy to pronounce if you remember to give sound to
every letter, place the accent on the first syllable, and pronounce the letter “j” as a “y,”
“c” as “ts,” “ s ” as “sh, “ “z” as “zhh,” and “ d ” as “dj.” If you try to learn to say and rec-
ognize at least a few rudimentary words and phrases in this Slavic variant, you will be
richly rewarded for your efforts.