Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Paradise Going, Going . . . Found?
The first steps to control the devastating rash of construction on the Black
Sea Coast was taken in 2006 when Parliament passed a law setting out new
zones (for example, no construction higher than 7.5m/25 ft. on the beach
and 100m/328 ft. inland), work restrictions (no work from May-Oct 15), and
green/environmental guidelines. A case of closing the door long after the
developers have bolted. Or, as Bulgarian proverbs would have it, “putting
one's hood up after the rain has stopped.”
If you really want to get away from it all, to a beach that isn't overlooked
by high-rise hotels, you'll need to travel all the way south to
Sinemorits,
and
overnight with the affable Bobby at his
Villa Philadelphia
(www.villa
philadelphia.com;
&
088 323 391
). Five years ago this little village, almost
walking distance from the Turkish border, was off-limits to the public; 3 years
later ground was broken by unscrupulous developers, and by end 2006 one
of its two beaches had three hideous hotels casting an ominous shadow. To
date the long curved beach to the north of the village, a gorgeous much-
photographed crescent, flanked by the reed-bordered Veleka River, remains
untouched, as does the riverine hinterland. This is the best place (take Bobby
with you) from which to witness the Via Pontica, a migratory route that sees
thousands of birds from over 300 species migrate via this coast. But develop-
ers are chomping at the bit, and while a Thracian gravesite has halted devel-
opments on the northern side, this may be temporary. Check on latest
developments with Bobby, or ask him to arrange birding or anthropological
trips into the interior, where few have as yet ventured.
church is the best preserved and has by far the prettiest, most photogenic exterior but,
like most of Nessebar's churches, serves as a gallery showcasing extremely mediocre
artists. Take the left-hand fork north to pass Church of St. John the Baptist, stopping
to enter
Sveti Spas
(Church of the Saviour; Mon-Fri 10am-5:30pm, Sat-Sun
10am-1:30pm; 3lev/$2/£1). Built in 1609 this is one of only two churches that have
frescoes well enough preserved to warrant a small entry fee; the other is
St. Stefan
Church
(aka New Metropolitan Church; daily 9am-6pm; 3lev/$2/£1). To the
north and west of Sveti Spas is a meandering network of narrow cobbled lanes spreads
to the shore, along which you'll find the remaining five churches—the only one worth
entering is
Sveta Bogoroditsa
for a brief view of its icons and carved bishop's throne.
More or less in the center of Old Nessebar you can't miss the ruins of
St. Sofia
Church
(Old Metropolitan Church), built in the late 5th and early 6th century, and
today surrounded by shops selling tourist tat and tables where you can catch a quick
espresso and a sandwich.
There are a plethora of places to eat but be warned: Nessebar's restaurateurs don't
have to work at their cuisine standards to fill their tables, and they don't. The most
peaceful setting, with the most-photographed view, is
Kapitanska Sreschta
(Captain's
Meeting Place) (Chaika St.;
&
0554/42124;
5.90lev-20lev/$2-$14/£2-£7; daily
11am-midnight)—just head for the small fishing boat harbor and look out for the
