Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 120

of the goldsmiths had developed to the extent that the fine features and billowing drap-
ery of a figurine of Victory so tiny—a gold jewelry item found in the tomb of a Thra-
cian woman—can only fully be appreciated when studied with a magnifying glass.
41 Maria-Luisa Blvd. & 052/681 030 or 052/681 011. www.varna-bg.com/museums/archaeology/enexhibit. Admis-
sion 10lev ($7/£3.50). Summer: Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Winter: Tues-Sat 10am-5pm.
NESSEBAR
A rocky “island,” connected to the mainland by a short isthmus, Nessebar boasts the
finest collection of 19th-century timber homes on the coast, as well as the largest col-
lection of Byzantine-influenced churches. Exploring the tiny port should be a won-
derful experience, but it is strangely dissatisfying. Very much a “dead” town, with a
mostly nonresident population leeching off the plump and pink tourists that throng
its streets (many of them from adjacent Sunny Beach, the largest, cheapest, and most
hideous of the Black Sea coast's vast resorts) it is by far the most commercial experi-
ence you'll have in Bulgaria (I mean, you know tourism has ruined a town when ban-
ners advertising “Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding” span its cobbled streets). Still, the
architecture is very pretty, and when the hordes have returned to their hutches in
Sunny Beach, the Old Town becomes a great deal more pleasant, and is at its best early
in the morning, when the cobbled streets are yours to explore virtually on your own.
(See overnight options below.)
Only 850m (2,788 ft.) long and 350m (1,148 ft.) long, Nessebar is easy to cover
and should take no more than a couple of hours—you can pick up a map from the
Archaeological Museum (2 Mesembria; Mon-Sat 9am-noon and 1-5pm; 3lev/$2/
£1), which is to the right of the Byzantine town gate ( A . D . 500); inside you'll find
some of the best bits taken from the surrounding churches as well as a few ancient
exhibits, like the 3000-year-old stone anchor, and the 200- B . C . statue of Hecate, god-
dess of witches and fertility. A short stroll down Mesembria brings you to the 14th-
century Pantokrator Church . Of the 11 churches, this stone-and-red-brick

Moments

Best Lunch on the Black Sea

Take away Nessebar's churches and tourists, and mingle in a few live-in
locals, and you have Sozopol—Bulgaria's oldest port, with a fresh produce
market and lively lived-in atmosphere. That's not to say Sozopol is devoid of
tourists, but these are not the hordes spawned by package tourism. The old
town's restaurants are the best along the coast, with sublime views and a
serene atmosphere that could have you stopping in for an early snack and
leaving in the evening after a long lunch. Add two sandy beaches to cool
off on, and Sozopol becomes a really worthwhile lunchtime excursion from
Varna or Nessebar (the latter about an hour away). Ksantana (7 Morski St.,
Sozopol; & 05502/2454 ), located in an old timber house tucked into the
cliffs, and clear views of the glittering sea, is a great option. Succulent lan-
goustines are a highlight, along with the perfectly cooked turbot (their spe-
cialty) and meaty Black Sea bluefish—if you've never tried the latter, order
the small portion, and augment it with the Ksantana salad—a platter of
roast peppers, eggplant purée, shopska salad, and tzatziki.