Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WHERE TO STAY
Budget travelers need look no further than Hostel Kashtata ( & 052/639660/1;
www.hostelkashtata.com). Centrally located, with seven bright, light en-suite double
rooms in a pale-yellow, century-old house overlooking a quiet leafy lane (only
50m/164 ft. from the beach) it's more B&B than hostel, with added extras like bicy-
cles and room service, and good value at just 30
($39) per room. If you want a
beachfront recommendation, the new five-story Panorama is bland but comfortable
with all rooms featuring sea views—the higher up the better; avoid the first floor
( & 052/687-300; www.panoramabg.com; from 148lev-168lev/$94-$107/£51-£58
double).
Cherno More A block back from the Sea Gardens, right on buzzing pedes-
trian Slivnitsa Boulevard, we really like this Communist-era monstrosity. It's an archi-
tectural masterpiece if you get the nostalgic charm of brutal fascist '70s-era high-rises,
its scale designed to dwarf mere mortals awaiting service in the cavernous entrance
lobby. It's a relic from Bulgaria's past that has somehow managed to reinvent itself (at
least more so than the nearby similar-era Odessos), though be warned: There are still
dank rooms that cower within its 14-floor bulk, replete with Communist-era tele-
phones, old shag carpets, and built-in cabinet radios. Rooms denoted as “deluxe” are
the ones to book—almost all on the 7th to 10th floors, these are certainly not “luxe”
but renovated and now very bland, very cheap, but functional, and every room has a
curved concrete balcony with fabulous city and/or sea views; wonderful, particularly
at night. Corner rooms have views both ways—room no. 1014 is a particularly spa-
cious example. ( Note: In a confusing slight to sensibilities, a “single” room here refers
to the fact that a room has one bed—even if it is a king, while a “double” room refers
to a twin-bedded room.) The dining room—another double-volume area that takes
up the entire top floor—has such panoramic views you might not even mind the
processed meats and cheese that pass for the breakfast buffet.
33 Slivnitsa., Varna, 9000. & 052/612 or 235/6/7/8. Fax 052/612 243. www.chernomorebg.com. 300 units. 28
standard (unrenovated) double; 40
Value
“deluxe” double (referred to as single for double bed; double for twin).
Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness and sports center; shops; room service; casino;
bingo; beautician; laundry. In room:A/C, TV, safe.
Grand Hotel Musala Palace A grand old turn-of-the-20th-century hotel,
this is a small, intimate boutique option—the top choice in Varna, with every one of
its five stars well deserved. Like the Grand in Sofia (no relation) rooms are inspired by
the deep, rich comfort of the U.K. gentleman's club, with decor touches ranging from
Louis XV-style wingback chairs to Regency-style curtain drapery, plus a few antiques
and gilt-framed mirrors thrown in for good measure; bathrooms too reflect the fact
that the hotel was recently renovated. Standard rooms are very comfortable, but if it's
a special occasion or money is no object, this is one place it's worth splashing out on
a deluxe (no. 406 is a great choice) or studio (book no. 102). Located in the center of
town, the hotel is strolling distance from the seafront, recommended restaurants, and
archaeological museums. The only possible drawback is that—once back and com-
fortably ensconced in your room you could, given the lack of city or sea views, be in
a landlocked capital anywhere in Europe. Then again, this being Varna, with the lev-
els of service and comfort you could only be at the Musala Palace.
3 Musala St., Varna, 9000. & 052/664100. Fax 052/664196. www.musalapalace.bg. 24 units. Fri-Sun 150 -185
($191-$235) double; Mon-Thurs 190
-50
-230
($261-$318) double. 205
-250
($242-$293) suite, depending on
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