Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 116

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Quiet Escape to the Queen's Nest

If Varna's cityscape gets too much, take a 45-minute drive north to “Quiet
Nest” ( & 0579/74452; 8am-9pm summer; 8lev/$5/£2.80), the modest palace
built by the Romanian Queen Marie at the turn of the 20th century just out-
side the small town of Balchik. The attractive granddaughter of Queen Vic-
toria, Marie had no lack of suitors, including the prince who would be
crowned King George V. But Marie's mother, an ambitious royal of Russian
descent, did not approve of the British royal bloodline, and sought instead
a match in Eastern Europe: Crown Prince Ferdinand of Romania was judged
a fitting catch and they duly married in 1893. Described as “a man of no sig-
nificant character,” it is generally agreed that King Ferdinand allowed the
more powerful and willful Marie to rule Romania. For her subjects she
developed a strong affection, and did much to ease sectarian tensions
between Muslims and Christians, but for her husband she felt nothing but
“distaste, which grew to revulsion,” as she wrote to a friend. An increas-
ingly restless Marie took on a lover, Prince Babu (thought to have influ-
enced her decision to became a devotee of the Baha'i faith, and father of
two of her children), and built a retreat on the Black Sea coast, which she
called “Quiet Nest.” The Palace is unfurnished, and so rather dull, but to the
north is a small building in which you'll find a boutique wine shop, Queens
Winery House. At the helm is 21-year-old Elleanna, a young winemaker
who stocks a superb selection of little-known wineries and produces
(among other labels) Ducessa Aperitiv, an “Aromatic Wine Drink”—appar-
ently the Romanian queen's favorite drink, the recipe for which Elleanna
managed to pry from the queen's winemaker before he passed away in
2005. Passionate about the untapped potential of Bulgarian wine, and a tal-
ented maker to boot, the new queen of the Nest is one to watch.

(24lev/$16/£8.50). Buses arrive at the Central Bus Station ( & 052/448 349 ) on 158
Vladislav Varnenchik Blvd. For trains add at another 2 hours ( &

052/630 414;

www.bdz.bg).
GETTING AROUND The easiest way to get around the main attractions in Varna,
located within the compact area of its Sea Gardens and Maria Luiza and Suborni
streets, is on foot. If you need a cab to explore farther afield, call Lacia at & 052/500-
000, or Maxa at & 052/303 030 or 0888 308 050. If you have flown in, you can rent
a car from one of the many reputable car-rental companies in town (www.avis.bg,
www.hertz.bg, www.toprentacar.bg). If you wish to catch a bus to or from Nessebar
(1 1 ⁄ 2 —2 hr. ride south), purchase your ticket from Etap (at Cherno More hotel) then
head to 7 Dobrovoltsi St. ( & 052/448-349 ).
TOURISM INFORMATION The Regional Tourism Information Centre is
located at 36 Tsar Osvoboditel Sq. ( & 052/602907; www.tourexpo.bg; Mon-Fri
9am-7pm; Sat 9am-1pm). A useful site (with great shopping and nightlife tips) is
www.travel.ciao.co.uk/Varna__Review_5394277).