Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 114

methods. The Icon Studio is where you'll find Plamen Malinov and Rossen Donchev
plying their trade—you'll pay more for one of their icons than you do for one on the
streets, but both are acknowledged to be masters (this is in fact a prerequisite for hav-
ing any workshop in Etur). In a lovely location on the banks of a burbling stream
(which powers much of the equipment), this will be one of the most delightful shop-
ping expeditions ever—unless you don't have cash (no one here takes credit cards).
Surrounding Monasteries Twenty monasteries were built around Veliko
Tarnovo during its zenith as capital of the Second Kingdom, of which 10 are within
a half-hour radius. One of the closest is pretty Preobrazhenski Monastery. Follow the
winding forest road that branches off the highway heading north to the Danube city
of Russe, and suddenly the trees clear to provide glorious uninterrupted views of the
hills and valleys beyond. This sublime spot is where the Jewish wife of Ivan Aleksan-
dur decided to celebrate her conversion to Christianity by building Preobrazhenski,
meaning “Transfiguration,” in 1360. Still officially “active,” but guarded only by a
monk, the monastery itself is largely in ruins, but the church frescoes are undergoing
restoration—don't miss Zahari Zograf 's Wheel of Life on the south wall. Directly
across the valley, also surrounded by dense vegetation, you can see the Sveta Troitsa
Convent . There are other gems, like the Kapinovo, Kilifarevo and Plakovo monas-
teries, but if you're looking for a lunch or dinnertime venue, head into the gorge that
protects laid-back Dryanovski Monastery, as much for its peaceful riverside location
and friendly monks, as Andaka, the lovely riverside restaurant (see “Where to Stay,”
above). And if you have decided to include Etura in your itinerary, be sure to fill up a
bottle with the sweet-tasting water from nearby Sokolovski, meaning “The Fal-
cons”—appropriate, given the views.
Shipka Pass and Church About 60km (37 miles) south of Veliko Tarnovo, on
the road to or from Kazanluk, you will traverse the historic Shipka Pass, scene of the
most momentous battle between Russian-Bulgarian and Turkish forces in 1877, a bat-
tle that decided the fate of the war, and delivered a cracking blow to the Ottomans.
There are two monuments to mark the battle: the rather stern six-story Freedom
Monument (daily 9am-5pm; 2lev/$1.50/70p), which requires a fair degree of stam-
ina—it's a steep flight of stairs just to the entrance, then many more to reach the top
to take in the awesome views of the Balkan Mountains; and the Valley of Kings
(including Kazanluk—a tiny, sprawling insect nest below). More accessible is the gold-
domed Church Monument. Located at the foot of the Pass, this—like Axander
Nevsky in Sofia—commemorates the Bulgarian and Russian lives lost during the
1877-78 War of Liberation.
Zheravna A total contrast to Arbanassi is the charming architectural museum
town of Zheravna, with a great deal more authenticity supplied by a local population
(numbering around 700). Depending on road conditions this little-visited village lies 2
to 3 hours from Veliko Tarnovo (a wonderful journey through winding forests and lush
pastures), making this more suited as an overnight stop on your way to the coast than
a day trip, but if you have not had a chance to explore the little museum towns scat-
tered in the Pirin and Rhodope mountains, then this is a must-see on your itinerary. A
hodgepodge of cobbled streets lined with gorgeous 17th-century timber homes shaded
by trees and oft covered with vines, their daisy-covered verges cropped by fat goats, it
is pure, distilled rural bliss. The most comfortable place to overnight is Hotel Liv
( & 088 978 3971; www.hoteliv.com; 50lev/$32.50/£17 double, including breakfast),