Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 113

heading up the Shipka Pass to get to Veliko Tarnovo, and could then cover Etura and
Tryavna en route, possibly overnighting at Draynovo.
Arbanassi Located within sight of Veliko Tarnovo on a high plateau 4km
(2 1 ⁄ 2 miles) to the northeast, the village of Arbanassi was settled some 300 years ago,
and showcases a rather severe fortified Bulgarian architecture, with solid stone walls
and thick nail-studded gates designed to repel accidental fires or planned incursions.
The solidity and sheer size of the houses was both a celebration and a display of
wealth, albeit here in a rather discreet, austere form. To view the interiors, visit
Kostantsaliev House (just behind the Kokona fountain; daily 9am-6pm; 4lev/
$3/£1.40). But Arbanassi's main attraction is it's 15th-century Church of the Nativ-
ity (turn left at the fountain; 4lev/$3/£1.40), with its opulent and glittering
interior, a stark contrast to the plain exterior.
Despite the heavy fortification, the village was regularly sacked by Turkish outlaws
and the inhabitants were gradually forced to ameliorate with the city that lay shim-
mering below. Today the town, though carefully restored, has a peculiarly dead feel,
with most of the houses either owned by wealthy city-dwellers who descend but once
a year, or by hoteliers—the streets are thus virtually empty unless swollen by foreign
ranks. Views of Veliko Tarnovo from the terrace of Arbanassi “Palace,” one of the
Communist dictator Todor Zhivkov's many holiday homes, but now a hotel (sadly
mismanaged), are worth the trip.
Tryavna & Etura Tryavna was established by refugees who escaped from the
fall of Tarnovo 400 years ago, but the old town's predominantly timber buildings, 140
of which are listed, date from when the village established the official Guild of Mas-
ter Builders and Woodcarvers in 1804. Start your wanders from the charming old
town square, where village elders play card games under a spreading tree; just off the
square is the tourism office, useful for a map (22 Angel Kunchev St.; Mon-Fri
9-noon and 2-5pm; note that all the museums, bar the Icon, which opens an hour
later, are open daily 9am-6pm in summer and 8am-5pm in winter, and charge
2lev/$1.50/80p). Of interest on the town square are the Church of Archangel
Michael (the lovely iconostasis was painted by the local Vitanov family, Tryavna's most
talented icon painters) and the 1839 Old School. But the real reason you're here is to
see the Museum of Woodcarving so head over the bridge to stroll down gorgeous
cobbled Slaveykov Street . (Note the house on your right as you cross the bridge;
owned by Zograff Inn, the two recently renovated rooms overlooking the river are by
far the best deal in town; call & 0677/4970; ask for “21,” a steal at 50lev ($32/£17);
www.bgglobe.net/zograf.html). More or less in the center of Slaveykov, clearly
marked, is the Woodcarving Museum, aka “Daskalov's House.” On the first floor
you can compare two of the most singularly beautiful ceilings, the result of a compe-
tition between Master Dimitur Zlatev and his then apprentice, Ivan Bochukovetsa.
Upstairs is another amazing feat: carved portraits by Master Gencho Marangozov of
Bulgarian heroes commissioned by another wealthy trader for his “Patriotic Room.”
From here it's a bit of a walk uphill to the Tryavna Icon Museum, but well worth
the effort. The most impressive work is in the first-floor room on the right, which con-
tains the work of the Vitanov and Zachariev families. Inspired by the work on display
here, you may suddenly want to take home an icon of commensurate quality. Head for
nearby Etura (9am-6pm; winter 8am-5pm; 6lev/$4/£2), an outdoor ethnographic
museum where various crafts are produced by masters using 19th-century traditional